Two Tone Treasure + How to Paint Furniture
April 26, 2011
Wow, such inspiration from this week’s Paint Projects Party, you simply must visit so many of these links! There are over 400 projects to browse, from furniture to floors to fabrics to home accents. Oh the power of paint never ceases to amaze me!
Nothing makes me happier than a great second hand find, and the opportunity to revamp the new treasure for a great cause. This one was for a good friend of mine who recently had a baby girl. She’s been a little preoccupied with her little one, so her hub and I conspired to makeover this piece for her nursery, currently a work in progress, but sure to beautiful when the space is finished.
I’ve been looking for the perfect dresser for her for awhile now, and finally scored this one at a local thrift store last week, I was so excited! I brought it home so I could paint it for her as a surprise.
With all the pieces I’ve painted over the years, I realized I should write up a full step by step for repainting an old treasure like this one, including cosmetic repair, priming and painting so here goes!
Supplies to Have Before You Start: Power screwdriver (+ drill bits if replacing hardware), medium (80 – 120 grit) sanding wedge, primer, latex paint color of choice, Floetrol, 2” angled quality paintbrush, water based polyurethane protectant.
How to Paint Wood Furniture: The Basic Steps
These are my tried and true techniques for repairing, priming, and painting an old hand me down, or a lucky Craigslist or thrift store find like this damaged honey tone wood dresser.
Necessary to Sand? If your piece is in pretty good condition, you can skip the sanding step or the use of a power sander and go straight to priming. Bonding primers don’t require sanding, even if your piece is heavily varnished, but I do find giving the furniture a good scuffing with a medium (80 grit) sanding wedge not only helps clean off any debris, but gives your primer a great surface to cling too. No need to sand away all the varnish and get down to the raw wood, just give it a good 5 to 10 minute scuffing with a sanding wedge, then wipe away any debris with a soft cloth.
Repairing Scratches, Dents & Holes. I bought this particular piece because of its classic lines and solid wood construction, but many would pass it up due to the surface damage. On the top of this dresser, there were deep scratches and a sticky residue, so the first thing I did was sand the scratches on the top with my power orbital sander to smooth out the surface.
There was also a deep unsightly welt in the front corner.
No worries, this is a cosmetic problem easily addressed with wood filler, which allows you to repair scratches, dents, welts and fill holes in your wood furniture before you go about painting it. I’ve tried other products, but to date Elmer’s is the best I’ve found. It’s moist and moldable and washes off your fingers and tools easily, dries quickly, and is also sandable and paintable.
Gently sanding the top with my power sander combined with the proper use of wood filler (two applications for the deepest welt), led to this perfectly smooth surface.
Filling Holes for New Knobs or Pulls. If you’ve opted for new knobs, often they will fit right in the old holes, but many modern pulls are sized differently than the old hardware. Wood filler is also your best bet for starting over.
These glass pulls can be found at Restoration Hardware, they’re gorgeous, but pricey. Definite bling for your furniture, but a worthy splurge for my very dear friend, especially since the dresser only cost me $40 dollars.
Do You Really Need to Prime? With wood furniture, the answer is yes and no. Yes, if you want a smooth even finish and a paint job that will last for years. No if you want a distressed look and don’t care about the paint peeling off over time, or if are using oil based spray paints, which I have found often work really well without primer. (Yes, I have read about the newest product on the market, chalk paint, see below!)
Nevertheless, I always advise if you’re seeking a straight up smooth evenly painted piece and a paint job that will last, using a good bonding primer is key. If you’re going to take the time and energy to paint a piece, take the time to prime it too.
My go to favorite has always been Zinsser. You can use the water based formula with the blue label but it takes up to a week to fully cure and I haven’t the patience. I prefer to use either the spray or brush on oil based Zinsser Cover Stain with the brown label, it has yet to fail me. For this dresser, I used spray on Zinsser for the drawers for a super smooth finish – it goes on quickly and dries in about 20 minutes. (If using the spray version, be sure to work in a well ventilated area and dispose of your cans according to your local waste regulations.)
For the top I brushed on a thicker coat of Zinsser because it will get the most wear and tear. It’s a personal preference to use the brush on formula, but for tabletops, desktops or other surfaces which will have lots o’ stuff sliding back and forth, a thick coat (even two!) of brush on Zinsser is a miracle worker, plus you can sand it smooth once it dries (in less than an hour per coat) making it easy to get really good bonding coverage in an afternoon.
In my opinion, this is the very best primer for laminate surfaces as well. I’ve used this brush on formula on a laminate storage center and also this office credenza, and haven’t had any chipping or scratched paint to date, and both of those pieces experience a lot of daily wear and tear.
Always Two Coats of Paint. Once you’re primer is fully dry, sand any drips, brush marks, or paint residue and wipe down with a soft cloth. I never skimp with just one coat, two is always best for uniformity and even coverage, allowing 4 to 6 hours of drying time between coats. There are two tools I won’t paint without.
1) Floetrol. This product in the orange bottle is a paint conditioner exclusively for latex paint (use Penetrol for oil based paints). It’s a product I have used time and again to extend the wet edge (or slow down the drying time) and also to minimize roller marks and brush strokes. The most frustrating part about applying paint to furniture by hand is the drag that occurs when paint starts to dry too quickly, so the Floetrol helps avoid that drag. I follow the directions on the back of the bottle, but I also let the paint’s workability act as a guide as to how much Floetrol is necessary.
Floetrol is not a paint thinner, it’s a conditioner sold at all the specialty paint stores, and it won’t change the color of your paint. It was recommended to me by a professional years ago, and ever since I’ve always used it. Floetrol is great investment if you’re also painting trim or doors around your house, it’s not expensive ($7 to $10 per bottle) and a little goes a long way.
2) A high quality angled paint brush is essential. If you don’t have the luxury of a sprayer, you’ll be using a paintbrush. The last thing you want to be doing is picking loose paintbrush hairs out of your paint, which happens with cheaper brushes so don’t bother with them. You can apply your paint quicker with a foam roller, but you still will end up with edge marks, so I always follow up a roller with a brush. An angled brush also helps get into grooves and crevices better, plus with a steady hand it cuts in straight lines extremely well. If you take good care of it, a good angled brush like Purdy will last you for years.
This dresser got two tones of paint for subtle but beautiful contrast. The drawers are painted with Benjamin Moore’s ‘Prescott Green’ (HC-140, Regal formula) and the top, sides and frame are painted with ‘Prescott Green’ cut in half with white paint.
This dresser is for a baby girl’s nursery and soft green is the favorite color choice for the space, which is why I chose this particular shade for her.
Should You Paint the Inside the Furniture? I typically don’t because layers of paint can cause stickiness or prevent your drawers from sliding in and out, but it depends on the piece. In this case, I painted just inside the frame, and nothing more. With doors I usually paint the back too so there is uniform color when doors are opened, but that is a personal preference.
Adding New Hardware. If you’ve filled holes from your old hardware and are drilling new ones, here are the steps I follow. Precisely measure the location of your new hardware, then use the proper size drill bit to create new holes for your screws. I do this before the protective coat, just in case there are any slip ups or mistakes that need to be patched or painted over.
A Note on Paint Sheen. You can choose anything from flat to semi gloss to refinish your furniture, I typically go with eggshell or satin. But it is the final protectant you use that determines the ultimate sheen.
Protecting Your Paint Job. These are the two brands I use: Minwax and Varathane, both in water based formulas.
You also have the option of using glazes and/or paste waxes for a more hand rubbed finish – see below for links to the sites I recommend that know all about protecting your piece with waxes.
Both Minwax and Varathane’s formulas are available in either satin or gloss clear finishes. When your paint has dried for at least 24 hours, apply a water based polyurethane to protect your surface. Do not use an oil based polyurethane, it will amber or yellow over time.
Minwax Polycrylic comes in both a spray or brush on formula. Varathane in spray, brush on, or my latest discovery, a rub on formula in a tube. This version is quick, easy, and dries the fastest.
Once the protectant is dry, you are free to bring the piece inside your home and make it work for your space!
There you have it, my step by step for a lasting paint job on wood furniture ~ these same steps also apply to wood cabinetry or laminate pieces as well.
I’ve read a lot about the latest ‘no primer’ product on the market, Annie Sloan’s chalk paint, and it sounds very promising having read several reviews. I have yet to try it because it’s more expensive than standard paint, requires an online order, and comes in limited colors, but I’m sure I’ll be ordering some soon just to see how I like it. I found this helpful article on the pros and cons and also gained some useful information from Amy’s experience working with chalk paint.
Distressing Techniques: I’ve repainted a piece here and there to achieve a distressed look, but there are three ladies who refinish furniture as a business that I highly recommend for this technique. These inspiring bloggers have mastered the art of distressing, glazing, and/or waxing furniture, so be sure to pay them a visit.
1) Shaunna from Perfectly Imperfect (I also recommend her eBook Creating Your Masterpiece), 2) Marian from Miss Mustard Seed (who also recommends both waxes and chalk paint), and 3) Holly from In the Fun Lane, who does the most beautiful white finishes on her pieces for sale.
Hope you’ve enjoyed this step by step today! It may seem time consuming and labor intensive but remember a quick spray primer and a rub on protectant are the fastest steps, it’s the repair and painting processes that take the most time. With a little patience, you’ll achieve a perfectly painted piece with smooth even coverage that will last for years to come.
Linking up to Layla’s How To’s Party & Tip Junkie’s ‘Tip Me Tuesday’.
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That is Brilliant! I love the two tone colors and the glass pulls! Those really made the piece so elegant and nice!
I have the exact same dresser that I am attempting for my first project. I am having a problem with the paint peeling, any suggestions? I sanded the entire piece down, then painted it with Olympic latex paint, and then tried to distress it with a sanding block but now it is peeling. I want to fix the peeling before I polycoat it.
Hi Marsha, did you prime it first? That certainly helps. Latex paint without primer can peel… let me know!
Kate
Have you used paint and primer combos for painting furniture eg) Behrs Premium Plus Ultra Paint and Primer in one? I find them too thick and difficult to get a smooth finish, just looking for a second opinion. I have also heard Floetrol is a good product to use when spray painting with latex paints.
Hi Jackie, I have not used the primer paint combon on furniture, only walls, and like you I find it very thick and it doesn’t cover as many square feet. Yes, Floetrol is great for conditioning latex paint in sprayers and via brush!
Kate
I am working on refinishing a china cabinet at the moment and the Varathane rub-on sealer looks great. I checked Lowes and Home Depot and I couldn’t find it. Where did you purchase yours?
Hey Elizabeth, a common question! It has limited distribution, I find mine at CA based Orchard Supply & Hardware, and can’t find it online, but I wrote to my contact at RustOleum (the parent of Varathane) and she told me they will make best efforts to make it more available both online and in stores like Home Depot and Lowes, yay there’s hope! Meanwhile you’re choices are the brush on (or I prefer to use a sponge brush) OR have you tried waxes? They are great too, for more of a hand rubbed finish. Try SC Johnson, Minwax, Fiddes & Sons, or Briwax.
I just found your site recently and love it! I have a question for you. I just found the varathane rub on poly (at Menards, by the way!), and it says to apply with a brush. I wanted to rub it on to avoid brushstrokes. How did you apply yours?
Hi Stephanie, nope I didn’t use a brush for the rub on, just a soft cotton rag, worked great!
Kate
My husband and I just repainted a dresser white, following all of these steps meticulously. The Zinsser cover stain did not cover smoothly at all (we rolled with a smooth foam roller) and left a lot of stippling/dimpling. In spite of the bottle-recommended amount of Floetrol and a nice angled Purdy brush, we have very obvious brush marks. And the water-based polyurethane yellowed in 2 days.
WTF did we do wrong? We do live in Phoenix, so it’s very dry. Could the dryness and superfast time in which all these things dried be to blame? It’s a dresser for our new baby’s room, so being a kid’s dresser, we’re not too heartbroken since the kid will inevitably mess it up anyway. But it definitely didn’t come out looking even close to as flawless as yours.
Hi Colleen, I’m so sorry for your frustration! I always follow up a rolled on primer with a good brush to smooth it out, and I also recommend Penetrol conditioner for oil based brush/roll on primers, they help condition the paint and increase your open working time to minimize brush strokes. I suspect the heat and dry desert climate does contribute to a faster drying time, especially with latex paint, so I’m terribly sorry you’re frustrated with your result! A little more Floetrol than recommended on the bottle might have helped. When all else fails and you’re not satisfied with the lack of a smooth surface with primer or paint, you can always gently sand it smooth before you add your final coat of paint. Hope this helps. Kate
I have always wanted to try this. I have paid someone else to do the work, but now I want to do a piece myself. Thanks for the great step by step!
[...] searched for a site to refer to for painting my bookcases and I like the one I found at Centsational Girl. So I am nervously anticipating my new DIY project. I will also be baking this weekend. Stay tuned [...]
Great blog!
So is the finish on this piece of furniture you refinished factory smooth? I mean is it completely free of brush strokes and looks like you picked it up from Pottery Barn? :)
I’m just trying to get a realistic gauge of what to expect from my DIY efforts on a black Pottery Barn piece of furniture I am getting ready to paint an off white color for our nursery. I have 6 months to get the nursery done and need all the help I can get!
To do list-
1. A dresser repaint.
2. Built in bookshelves and sitting bench with paint
3. Crown molding and room paint. (she wants some custom stenciling on the walls too of course)
Hi there! I recently painted a dresser and I love it….I sanded it all the way down and after painting there was a huge welt mark right on the top of the dresser? Now what? I haven’t done a second coat and this is suppose to be a shabby-chic vintage dresser I’m turning into a bar. Do you think a second coat of the antique white paint I’m using will cover it? Or do I need to go back and sand that spot all over again…or the entire top again? And I did a no-no and did not use a primer…..will that help?? HELP.
Hi Phebe, it just depends on what you mean by welt. Paint helps but rarely fills visible imperfections. How long your paint will last without primer depends on the surface underneath and the paint itself, but eventually it will chip or peel off over time without a layer of primer, but if that’s a look you may be comfortable with. If it was me, I’d at a minimum go back to the spot where there’s a welt, sand it down, fill it with wood filler, then sand it again to make it smooth, and paint over it.
Kate
Hi Adam, it’s never perfectly smooth with a brush, but it’s pretty darn close. The better quality brush and paint you use, the better off you are. Also look into enamel paints by Ben Moore (Advance formula) and Sherwin Williams, their water based formulas will give you a harder finish.
Question:
I have an old dresser that has been painted but it doesn’t have a protective coat over the paint so it is sticky to the touch. Can I prime over this and re-paint it, or should I sand it down, prime then paint? I am new to restoration and this is my very first project. Any suggestions?
Hello, I’m glad to find this how-to! I have been trying (unsuccessfully) to paint a vanity and stool. I sanded, used a primer and benjamin moore satin paint but can’t keep it from chipping! The primer is the same primer I have used on my walls. Could this be the problem? So frustrating.
Hi Pam, do you recall which primer it was? I use different primers for walls (typically water based) than I do for furniture (typically oil based) – do share, I’ll try to help.
Kate
Thanks for going into such depth/detail. We all know where the devil lives!
I am contemplating an overhaul of a piece from my Mom’s that was
originally a 2piece hutch. Both of us used the bottom as an extra dresser
in our b’rooms. She used to prop her butts on the edge so there are little
reminders of her scattered about. To eliminate or not….that is what has kept me
from a complete overhaul.
Thanks so much for your information! Your dresser is beautiful. I am currently painting a bathroom cabinet using your instructions. I sanded, primed and appllied my first coat of paint with floetrol. I used all of your recommended products. I was wondering, should I add the floetrol to the Minwax water based polycrylic? This is my first of many projects, as I just purchased a home that needs a lot of work, next time, I will use penetrol for the primer, I just saw your response to someone else, although, I didn’t really have a problem with the primer, I did have brush strokes, hopefully they won’t show through the paint. Do you know anything about the Rustoleum cabinet transformation kit?
Hi,
I just read your post. You gave a really great explanation of technique and tools required. I’m off right now to find some oil based primer ! Thanks for the inspiration and the expert direction !
It is Super Spec latex enamel primer. Thanks!
Hi Christina, the Floetrol is just for paint, not for protectants, so don’t mix it in with the Minwax Polycrylic. You do have the option of using waxes too, which I’ve been using a lot lately, for more of a hand rubbed matte finish. Yes, I’ve used the Rustoleum product – wrote about it here:
http://www.centsationalgirl.com/2011/07/mini-kitchen-makeover/
Kate
HI Kelli, if it’s sticky then it’s latex paint – you have two options, if the paint is thick, then you’re better off stripping it down because layers and layers of paint can actually prevent drawers from opening properly. If not, then you can use latex paint directly over latex paint as long as there’s no protective coat in between and it sounds like with that stickiness there isn’t. Try a deglosser first then give it another fresh coat or two of latex or water based enamel paint – you should be fine. Enamel paints don’t have that sticky after effect, but some latex paints do so be sure to give it a protective coat like Polycrylic or Varathane, or you can use furniture waxes for more matte finish.
Kate
Love your site!!!!!…we just bought a thrifted dresser and attempted to follow your directions…but we have brush strokes.. :( …we live in Pennsylvania and since it is so cold outside we used the brush on primer to stop it from smelling so much in our home with the kids…..can we spray outside in cold temps? Do you find the paint will not cure in a cold garage say 40 degrees or below? Any advice for being able to spray our projects outside in the cold would be awesome!
Whoops…also is there anything we can do now that the piece is showing brush strokes?
Hey Jewel! Are there brush stokes in the primer? You can sand them down – try a medium sanding wedge – and yes you can spray prime but it must be in a well ventilated area over 70 degrees according the can of primer… so sorry… the spray has to wait until warmer weather, but definitely try sanding the brush on, I’ve done that a lot!
Kate
You mean in the paint Jewel? If so, then it’s tough to remove them completely but a light sanding should help.
Can you use the oil based zinnser as primer with water based latex paint?
Thanks for any help.
Yes Lucy you can! You can always use the Zinsser oil based primer under any latex or enamel paint.
I love this dresser you did for your friend. I am working on painting my granddaughters nursery furniture black. (her Mom chose Black, Hot Pink & white for baby bedding). I used Zinser Bullseye water based primer – 3 coats for full coverage. 3 coats of Valspar Black Satin waterbased paint (New Black). And I special ordered the tube varathane water based. (hard to find) I tried a small area to rub on – just didn’t work – I used a foam brush but it left every stroke showing on the black when it dried. I finally got advice from the local hardware to use Cabot oil based poly. Now I am concerned about putting oil over the waterbased products and that have I ruined the project. I hate the odor and the long drying time. I wanted it baby safe and now I just don’t know. Everything says it’s safe when it has dried. Can you calm my worries over safety? Signed Concerned
Hi Bonnie, I don’t advise used oil based poly over water based paint, it’s designed for wood stain, not paint. The water based products are much better, so sorry to hear you had bad luck with the Varathane, they’re all sensitive to temperature and can dry too fast if over 70 degrees. I know little about the Cabot poly, I only use Minwax wipe on Poly and it’s pretty strong stuff. It’s hard to call it “baby safe” because everyone has a different definition of that, personally in a nursery I’d use low or no VOC products, and the Cabot is not as far as I know. Over time (I’d say at least a month) the VOCs are minimized and practically eliminated but in the future, stick to the water based and low or NO VOC stuff around kids.
Kate
Thank you for your response….can you also tell me how much floetrol you used per gallon of paint? One quart? We tried our second piece of furniture and still brush strokes? Do you reccommend using a roller to apply paint or the angled brush?