DIY: Tongue & Groove Walls
July 1, 2013
Greetings all and welcome to July! Can you believe half the year is gone already? Sheesh! We had a fun filled weekend, spending Friday night with a group of friends going to a club to have dinner and cocktails and listen to a band. Saturday we stopped by the ‘Days of Wine and Lavender’ event at Matanzas Creek Winery, sampling gourmet bites and local wines, so fun!
But there was some work we finished up too, the tongue and groove wall treatment we installed in friend’s dining room two weeks ago. It made sense to start this total room makeover with the walls first before adding the new table, chairs, light fixture, and window panels (coming soon).
We installed classic tongue and groove vertical planks to the walls – all supplies courtesy of Lowes. The room is still in a very neutral stage right now – I’m deciding what to do above the new wall treatment (bold paint? wallpaper?) but here is a look at the new wall treatment with the steps we followed and products we used to add tongue and groove planks to this dining space in progress.
We started with the Pickwick planks from Lowes, look for them in the lumber & trim department. These tongue & groove pine planks come in packages of six pieces and are ready to stain or paint.
To recreate a similar tongue & groove plank wall, here are the supplies you’ll need: plank panels from Lowes; construction adhesive; miter or skill saw; Dremel multi max; brad nailer; socket spacers; paint roller, paintbrush; primer + paint.
It’s best to choose a corner to start and work your way out from there. The planks are designed with grooves on one side so that they fit like puzzle pieces together.
We used a combination of adhesive and nails so the planks would have staying power, applying a thin amount of adhesive and then securing the planks to the wall with a brad nailer.
Since the panels add thickness to the wall, use spacers to extend your electrical sockets like the ones we used here so the plates are flush with the new paneling.
To notch the panels around the window sills and electrical sockets, we used a Dremel Multi Max with a saw blade. The planks are thin enough so that they can be notched for the sections around the window sill and electrical sockets.
With pine, there will be knots and holes to fill so anticipate that – I used wood filler and paintable caulk to fill all the gaps.
We added a chair rail to the top and ended it at the edge of the windows since the homeowners want to continue to use their inside mount blinds for privacy and light control. To maintain clearance the edge needed to stop there, but since new window panels will hide the edge, this simple solution made sense.
Once the planks were installed, I coated with Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 Primer and Valspar paint in semi gloss in the color ‘Ivory Dust’ to match the existing baseboard paint color. A roller helps for quick application but you’ll need a brush for the grooves.
I had planned to have the planks sit taller on the wall, but figured out I could save money by making the planks multitask. By choosing the height of the measurement from the top of the baseboard to the bottom of the window sills as the first cut, and using the remaining portion of the plank for the taller portion of the walls, we were able to use one single plank two times. Although we compromised with shorter planks, in hindsight, the shorter planks on the wall will allow for a fun design element above.
I’m considering a bold wall color…
… or perhaps a textured or patterned wallpaper.
I can’t make a decision until we pick fabric for the window panels and settle on a color palette which will happen next week, stay tuned!
*all supplies for this project courtesy of Lowes, all opinions my own!
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