Today is a great day, as we kick off  the Holiday Home Parties, and today Layla is hosting table decor.  I hosted a tablescape contest last week (announcing the winners soon!) so I thought I’d create something for the host or hostess you can make and give that they’d be proud to place on their  table!  The best news is these wine bags can be made with scraps of fabric you have leftover from other projects. They’re easy to make and a great way to personalize a gift of wine or bubbly.   

For this project, I used Waverly fabrics (see sources below) as one of the 12 Waverly Bloggers of Christmas. If you’d like to create some of these on your own, here’s what you’ll need: scrap of fabric (see measurements below); ribbon, thread & scissors.  Optional tassels or cards to embellish. 

Here are the rough measurements I used for the strips of fabric for both the wine and champagne bottle.  Remember to double the length measurement when you cut (40” for wine; 36” for champagne).

Turn your fabric inside out and sew the length of the bottle stopping short at 5 inches to create the collar. 

Keeping the bag inside out, fold back the collar and sew across the width of the bag (tuck the rough edge under for a cleaner look) stopping ½” before the edge of the bag. 

Turn bag right side out to reveal the unsewn edge of the collar and sew it closed to create a clean hem for when you fold it over. 

Finally, hand stitch the corners of the bottom together to hide the pointy edges ~ they’ll be buried inside the dimple inside the bottom of the bottle so it sits up straight. 

Tie it up with some extra ribbon and add some decorative tassels, a tag, or an ornament.  It’s like an elegant coat for your bottle on a cold winter’s night! 

A wine bottle stopper would look great tied to the front of a bottle of wine as an additional gift for after the vino is gone.   

Thank you to Waverly for including me in the Twelve Bloggers of Christmas! 

Waverly fabrics used for this project:  Snow Leopard and Mica Coconut.  I’d also like to thank my friend and neighbor Kathleen who rescued me in a pinch! My sewing machine started acting up after I sewed the first bag and no matter what I tried I couldn’t figure out what was wrong so I called her up and she helped me sew the champagne bag at her house on Saturday night, thanks so much Kathleen!! 

Styled a pretty table or created something for your holiday tabletop?  Link up to Layla’s Table Decor party!  

Thank you Layla for hosting! 

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Sewing a simple stocking couldn’t be easier if you can sew a straight line (and around the little curved boot) on a sewing machine.  Of course I had to complicate matters and add batting for thickness, piping for contrast, and a decorative cuff, but in the end I’m glad I decided on those little extras. 

If you’d like to sew your own cuffed creation, here’s what you’ll need:  1.  ½ yard stocking fabric  2.  ½ yard liner fabric  3.  ½ yard cuff fabric (only for bias cut piping, otherwise just a scrap)  4. batting (optional)  5. thread  6. stocking template  7. piping cord (optional)  8. scissors and pins.    

To start, create a template of the approximate size stocking you want with paper or thin cardstock.  My template was about 16” tall x 12” across the boot (but I cut it to more like 18” x 12”).  Next cut your stocking and liner fabric to the size of your stocking, allowing ½ inch excess fabric for seam.  

Adding a layer of quilt batting between the outside fabric and liner is optional, but I think it makes for a more substantial stocking so I added it. Layer the batting between the liner and stocking fabric and pin it, then sew together with sewing machine.  Note, if you skip the layer of batting, you can go right to sewing the liner and outside fabric together (inside out) without sewing each side of the stocking individually.

Another optional step is to add decorative piping in the same color as the cuff for contrast.  Make sure your fabric is cut on the bias, then stitch together your cord in the casing. (Here’s a how-to I wrote on piping and double welt cord).  It’s best to use your zipper foot for this step.

Slowly and carefully stitch your two sides of your stocking together (inside out), fitting the piping in between.

*sorry for the lame pic, I was sewing late at night.

For the cuff, cut a long piece of fabric sufficient enough to wrap around the top.  Since my stocking was about 7” wide on each side, I winged it and cut a rectangular strip 16” long (allowing extra for seams) x 10” tall then folded it over with a layer of batting in between to form a 4” cuff.  Keep your stocking inside out, then stitch to the top of your stocking. Fold over to reveal contrasting cuff.  

For your loop hook, take a long strip of stocking fabric, sew it together (inside out) to form a long strip then use a safety pin to turn it right side out.  Hand or machine stitch it to the inside of your stocking.

Embellish with trim (think pom pom, ric rac, or lace) or a simple ornament and fill it with gifts!

More decking of the halls continues this weekend and the Holiday Link Parties start next week.  In the mood to party some more?  Over 30 Holiday Themed Link Parties listed here ! 

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas… can’t wait!

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I also loved Megan’s button center and floral accents too!  I went down to my local Goodwill and saw at least a dozen sweaters to choose from.

I bought the center one for $3 bucks and brought it home.  Then I pinned this:

And a few days ago I made this! 

The flower is a lapel pin I’ve had for awhile that suits the pillow perfectly. 

I also found another gray and red striped sweater at the Goodwill for $3 and also stitched up this cozy Christmas accent pillow:

Here’s the simple how to:  First, cut your sweater to the size of your pillow form (whether square or oblong) and allow an extra inch of material all around. Turn the knit material inside out and stitch it together with a sewing machine on 3 ½ sides.  Turn right side out and stuff opening with pillow form, then hand stitch the remaining opening closed. 

Any ol’ sweater you find at a thrift store can become your next decorative accent in these upcoming chilly months!  

Linking up to the Pinterest Challenge party:

Thank you Katie, Sherry, Ana, and Erin for hosting!

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I’ve always wanted to, so when I was sent a few yards of pretty gray floral and stripe Cabbages & Roses fabric (thank you Lily!) I decided this was the perfect opportunity to try my hand at making my own.  Sew glad I did (hardy har!) because it couldn’t be easier. 

With one yard of cotton in each fabric, you can make four napkins or four placemats. If you can sew a straight line, you can easily make your own beautiful sets of reversible cotton or cloth napkins and placemats for any season, and for less than you’d pay at most retail shops.

How To Make Reversible Cloth/Cotton Napkins & Placemats

1.  With cotton it’s a good idea to wash your fabric first before sewing. For each napkin, cut two squares of complementary fabric at 18” inches on all sides.  For placemats, cut your fabric at 18” by 22” to form a rectangle. 

2.  Like you would with a pillow cover, lay both sides of the fabric down with the patterns facing each other then pin all around. 

3.   Sew edges all around with ½ inch seam allowance, but leave a 2 inch opening on one side.  Trim excess. 

4.   Pull fabric right side out of 2 inch opening to reveal both patterns. 

5.  Press placemat/napkin flat with a hot iron to remove wrinkles.  Flatten the seams and the 2 inch portion that still remains open.     

6.  Return to the sewing machine and sew the 2 inch opening shut along the edge. 

7.  Continue seam around entire edge of napkin or placemat for a clean look, and also to assist keeping all sides together and making it easier to iron once it comes through the wash.   

This is an easy afternoon project that gives you a custom look for your tabletop.  You can also make cocktail napkins or fabric coasters using the same method.  These also are a great gift idea for a friend, family member, host or hostess . . .

Bonus, you can pull a switcheroo, and reverse the patterns.

For the cost of two yards of fabric, you can make yourself four napkins or four placemats. Since you can find so many cotton fabrics for under $5 a yard at many fabric stores, you could easily make four reversible napkins or four reversible placemats in your pattern of choice for under $10. 

Easy, elegant, and inexpensive too.

BTW, that chunky wood bowl filled with pears is from Kohl’s – I found it there for $15 earlier this summer, love it!  If your looking to buy the same fabric, find a local store by looking here.

Speaking of pears, oh my word I’m so in the mood for this spiced pear cake.  And I can’t wait to savor those mission figs too, perhaps with good cheese and local honey?  Anyone have any good fig recipes? 

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As I browsed the local fabric store, I realized they had no such thing as double welt cord in stock.  Wrenching my hands, wondering what to do, nervously pacing back and forth, I paused next to the upholstery supplies.  It was then I heard from behind me, “Whatcha looking for Hun?”  I thought at first this was some bored sales clerk, but then I realized by the way she said ‘Hun’ she was, in fact, a well intentioned stranger.  A stranger I shall dub ‘Saint Seamstress’ for reasons which will be revealed.  

I’m prone to striking up conversations with strangers, so I related my dilemma, wholly expecting her to shrug her shoulders, say “I dunno” and walk away.   When I explained I was in the middle of reupholstering a chair, and I needed to trim the edges to hide the staples, she immediately said, “Have you thought of using gimp?”   Gimp?  Gimp!  I knew I had encountered someone who speaks upholstery language! 

So I tackled her to the ground and made her answer all my questions under extreme duress.  

I kid.  No, I explained I didn’t want to use gimp this time, like with this bench, rather I wanted that polished double welt cord look you see on high end upholstered chairs.  I started rattling off questions and then I hit the jackpot. 

This lovely woman stood there unshaken at my brazen unending questions.  “Am I insane to reupholster with velvet? Velvet is so fussy and temperamental, always prone to puckering.  Is velvet really the diva of fabrics?”  “How do I round this corner with my piping (pointing to the old smoke scented foam seat)?”  Where can I find inexpensive quality foam in this town?”   And the ultimate question: “How do you make double welt cord trim?”

She shared all her secrets, tips and tricks with a smile on her face.  Don’t you love when experienced professionals share their knowledge with the world for freeeeeeee?  Why didn’t I get her name?  Why didn’t I give her my name?  Why didn’t I snap a photo of us with my phone for me to remember this blessed soul for all eternity (and then of course add to this post)?  Why God whyyyyyyy????

Sewing Your Own Double Welt Cord

Start by cutting your fabric on the bias, then sewing it together to form one long strip.  Make sure you have about 2” width of fabric to form your cord casing.  ‘On the bias’ simply means cutting ‘on the diagonal’ so that your threads criss-cross and therefore bend around the turns better.  At least, that’s my amateur definition.  Someone much smarter than me with more experience figured that out a long time ago in a galaxy far far away. 

With your zipper foot, sew your first layer of piping by stitching your cord into your casing. 

Switch your machine foot back to standard, and insert a second layer of cord.  Flip over and pin your fabric to hold your second cord in place.  

Sew slowly right over the top.

Trim your excess fabric when done. 

Just be careful and sew reaaaaallly slow or you’ll end up with one of these:

Like I did. 

Anyway, long story short, I made my own double welt cord trim. 

Saint Seamstress, wherever you are, I love you.  I want to adopt you into my family and make my stroganoff meatballs just for you.  I love you because you didn’t look at me cross-eyed when I wanted to reupholster my chair in velvet.  Because you taught me where to buy cheaper quality foam in my town, and how to DIY me some double welt cord trim.  And most importantly, you reminded me of the kindness of strangers.  All is right in my universe.

If you’re still scratching your head, wondering what the heck I’m talking about or why would I torture myself in this double welt endeavor, it’s because I’m trying to finish this cane chair.

And as all upholsterers know, double welt cord is the major forgiver of sins. Otherwise known as the trick used to cover up all those unsightly staples and tacks so you can make your chair pretty once more. 

If I lost you at piping, or if this entire post about double welt cord just scares the hell out of you, do what Linda did and pay someone else to do it for you.  That works too.

Questions to ponder:

Is velvet really the diva of fabrics?  How would you attach the double welt to this chair, with fabric glue or hot glue?  Is Christmas really three days away?   Help please.   

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The very best way to soften a space, to add texture, pattern and personality, is with the use of great fabrics, so I believe one of the best tools for an avid DIYer is a basic sewing machine. You’ll find plenty of tutorials online for ‘no sew’ decor, and they are fantastic, in fact I’ve done several myself.  There are lots of times when fusible web, fabric glue, or safety pins have come to my rescue with a simple hem or a window treatment.  Yay for those solutions!  Yet one thing I’ve learned is that having the ability to work a sewing machine opens up an entirely new world.

Do you ever see a swatch of fabric, be it in the form of a dress, an apron, a napkin, a silk scarf, and you think to yourself, "This would make a great pillow!" or you find a great fabric and think "I want to make curtains out of this."  It happens to me all the time!  You can design an entire space around a single swatch of fabric that inspires, be it a damask, geometric, Ikat or simple stripe pattern, whatever speaks to you.  I am constantly inspired by patterns I find beyond the racks in fabric stores, and I’m a big believer in reinventing them into new things.

For example, take these inexpensive napkins I found in a local kitchen store.  Beautiful robins egg blue background with an apple green botanical pattern.  Love!  In fact, I loved them so much, I turned them into a pillow!

We all know custom window panels and designer pillows can cost a small fortune.  Years ago, after gathering a few quotes, there came a moment when I just wanted the ability make a simple pillows for myself out of some favorite fabrics, but didn’t want to pay someone to have them made.  So I did some research online, and I bought a basic Singer sewing machine for around $125 bucks.

My Mom didn’t teach me to sew (I wasn’t interested when I was young).  I taught myself by reading the manual and following directions.  I learned how to thread the machine and to sew a straight stitch.  Most recently, I’ve mastered piping and zippers, all with some online tutorials, a lot of patience, and a little gumption.

So many people I converse with via email want the ability to create things for their home, but have never learned how to sew, mostly because they’re afraid it’s too hard.  I’m here to tell you it’s not!   You can do it!  

If you’re ready to get started, here are some encouraging words and a few pointers from my guest, Julie Anne Eason of Serious Sewing.com.

Ten Rules of the Road for Happy Sewing Machines

"A new sewing machine can be your gateway to a whole new world of creativity and thrifty fun. It’s easy to imagine yourself spending long hours blissfully churning out cheap-but-chic fashions for yourself, your family and friends. But sometimes reality steps in and smacks unwary beginners upside the head.  A sewing machine can provide hours of joy if you take the time to learn a few simple rules before you start to sew.

1. Use good thread.  The number one reason people have trouble with a new sewing machine has something to do with thread.  Cheap thread will shred and jam up your machine so if you’re having trouble (especially with the dreaded "birdsnest" of tangled thread under your fabric) just do yourself a favor and switch to a better brand of thread.

2. Use the right needles for your project and change them often.  I know people who think the only time you should change a needle is if it breaks.  Not true. Needles get dull; they get bent; they get nicked; they just plain wear out.  After every ten hours of sewing, you should think about changing your needle.

You also need to use the right needle for the project. There are two types: ball point and sharps.  Ball point needles are designed to sew knits (anything stretchy) and sharps are designed for woven fabrics (non-stretchy.)  There are universal needles which usually work okay for both types of cloth.  If you’re having trouble with skipped stitches or weird seams, ditch the universal for the appropriate type needle.  Also, use the correct size needle for your fabrics as well.  Sewing machine needles are sized differently for lightweight, medium and heavyweight fabrics. Check your machine’s instruction manual for specific recommendations.

3. Read your manual.  Every machine is a little different, so even if you’ve been using your Grandma’s 1940′s Singer for years, your new machine will work a little differently.  It can take a little time to read through the entire manual, but it’s worth the effort. The authors often include priceless tips that you wouldn’t find anywhere else.

4. When in doubt, rethread.  It never fails, at the first sign of trouble with a stitch or seam, we all head straight for the tension dials.  Please, for the love of fabric, leave the tension dials alone!  At least at first.  Anytime you run into trouble, your first thought should be "hmm, maybe it’s threaded wrong."   Do yourself a favor and just rethread the machine. About 80% of the time, this will fix whatever is wrong.  The other 20% could be you need a new needle or different thread.

Here’s a bonus tip:  Always, rethread your machine with the presser foot in the UP position.  Otherwise, the thread might get caught by the tension disks and then your machine won’t work.

5. Clean and oil your machine often.  Most sewers don’t clean their machines nearly often enough because they think they have to take it to a sewing machine mechanic and pay $100 or more to get it cleaned.  Go to YouTube or research online for a tutorial.  If you can work a screwdriver, you can clean your machine.

6. Take the time to understand your stitches.  Modern sewing machines come with a huge assortment of stitches (some machines come with thousands built-in.) Some of them are designed for sewing regular fabrics; some are for stretch fabrics; and some are purely decorative embroidery-type stitches.  Using the wrong stitch for the wrong purpose will cause you trouble.

7. Use the correct presser foot for the job.  Depending on your machine, you probably have a regular foot, a zig-zag foot, a button-holer, a walking foot, a zipper foot and a wide variety of others.  These are specially designed to perform unique tasks, so use them appropriately.  Presser feet are very easy to change in and out, usually with just the touch of a button.

8. Try this fancy trick.  To help prevent that snarl you sometimes get at the very beginning of a seam when your fabric edge is too close to the needle, hold the main thread and bobbin thread in your left hand and pull gently for the first few stitches until the jagged parallel lines, or ‘feed dogs’ are completely in control of the fabric.

9.  Keep a pretty jar handy for bent pins and broken needles.    I’ve had one too many times where the needle slammed right into the pin and broke.  It’s always a hassle, so now I just pull the pins out as I sew.

10.  Slow down.  We’re all in a hurry to get a project done, but sometimes you really need to slow down.  When you’re first learning how to sew, when working tricky curves and sharp corners, or when you’re working with thick layers of fabric, you should start on the slowest setting and then speed up as you gain experience, or after gauging how the machine handles the fabric. 

Follow these tips and you’ll spend your sewing hours happily creating project after project instead of fighting with your machine! 

If you’re inspired to purchase a new machine, I recommend new sewers choose quality over the lowest price.  I think the Brother CS6000I is the best model for beginners, you can read my full review here.  Having a machine that runs well means you can save money later by recycling used clothing, mending torn garments and creating pieces that fit you perfectly!"

Julie Anne Eason is an independent web publisher and writer specializing in sewing and craft projects.  You can find her at her blog Serious Sewing.com. 

Thank you so much Julie for your time, expertise, and recommendations!  Now, here’s how I made that sweet stylish pillow out of napkins found at a local kitchen store.

How To Make a Removable Pillow Cover out of Two Cloth Napkins

1) Cut one of the napkins in half down the middle.  2) Flip both napkins inside out and overlap the hemmed edges of the cut napkin.  3) Stitch overlapped edges together.  4) Sew the perimeter of the napkins edges together (inside out). 4) To prevent fluffier pillows from bulging on the back, sew small Velcro tabs to the edge of the overlap (turn the sewing needle by hand and avoid using the pedal to prevent needle breakage due to thickness. 6) Velcro together for a seamless back.

Voila!  A designer look pillow cover fashioned out of napkins!

Those of you who sew, tell me, what’s your favorite project you’ve created on a sewing machine?  Those of you who don’t sew, are you inclined to purchase a sewing machine or put one on your Christmas list?  Do tell!

** If you have an area of expertise that is content relevant, that you believe CG readers may appreciate, please feel free to submit your article for consideration after reviewing these guidelines for guest submissions.

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Last week, I finished the laundry room makeover, and many of you inquired about the window treatment.  Here’s the play-by-play on how I made this fixed flat fold shade.

The room is on the second story and never in need of darkness.  I’ve made roman shades before, but this time I made it a fixed shade.  Yep, it’s true, this one’s a big fat faux, fake & phony – it doesn’t go up and down.   I wanted just the ‘look’ of a functioning flat fold roman shade since I never intended to raise or lower it for light control.   When I was researching fixed shades online, I found this fantastic tutorial by Darby and I was completely inspired.  

This is a very simple sew project that anyone can do, if you can sew a straight stitch on a sewing machine.  Since this is an outside mount shade, I measured the width of my window (48”), then added 2 inches on each side.  The total width of the shade = 52”.  I allowed one inch extra on each side for the hem = 54” before sewing the liner and fabric together. 

On a large flat surface, layer your blackout liner on top of your decorative fabric (the upside down version of what you see), then smooth out any ripples or bubbles and pin them together.   Sew together on three sides with straight stitch on sewing machine. 

Next, pin your fabric to your liner every 12” horizontally and every 8” vertically.  With a sewing machine (or by hand), stitch your liner to your fabric using a complementary thread.  Do this to avoid puckering, to secure your liner to your decorative fabric, and to prevent your liner if from pulling away from your decorative fabric when it hangs above the window.  

With a functioning shade, this would be achieved by stitching the loop tape and rings to the back, but since this is a fixed shade, the small stitches are essential to ensure your fabric hangs without sagging.   

If adding decorative ribbon, do so with complementary thread or no sew fabric glue. 

To create a crisp corner, pinch the ribbon and fold it under the horizontal side – secure with a sewing machine or fabric glue. 

When your ribbon and fabric glue is dry, lay out your fabric on a large flat surface to  create your folds.   Once you’ve determined your folds, measure the fabric to make sure your shade is length that you want for your window treatment. 

After you measure the folds, stitch them together on the sides with a needle and thread. 

I also loosely stitched the folds together along on the back of the shade to prevent sagging in the middle.   

Insert a dowel rod at the bottom of each fold to keep a smooth line across the bottom.

Staple your fabric shade to your strip of wood and you’re ready to hang it up !

To secure to your wall, lift the fabric and screw the wood directly into your wall studs. 

That’s it, a simple sew project that adds a fixed fabric window treatment to your space !

If you want to create a fully functioning flat fold shade, you can buy a kit which includes the cord, cord lock and cleat, screw eyes, tape and rings – I’ve spied them at Joann’s and other fabric stores – the kit includes all the instructions to make a roman shade – OR . . . you can also check out this functioning roman shade I made last year for my master bath !

Darn it, why did I have to spy those bolts of faux fur ?  I was completely stopped in my tracks.  I couldn’t think about stockings, I could only see a fabulous tree skirt trimmed in that cream colored fur.  I’ve never ever ever had a tree skirt -  it’s one of those luxuries I’ve just never bothered to purchase.  In years past, I simply wrapped a piece of crimson velvet around my tree trunk.  In truth, that worked just fine since the fabric always seemed to be covered up with Christmas presents relatively quickly. 

This year, after spying that fur, I just had to make myself an authentic tree skirt.  I wanted a skirt with a luxurious look, but without the big price tag. 

So I came up with this purty little number. 

Here’s the quick and easy way to make this simple sew faux fur trimmed tree skirt in one afternoon.

Supplies

1. One square piece of base fabric (velvet, polyester blend, or felt – your choice).  If your fabric has a width of 54” on the bolt, then purchase the same length. 
2. Enough 7′’ strips of faux fur to make 300” inches in length.  
3. Three yards decorative trim (optional)

Step One:  Fold your square piece of fabric into quarters (I chose bronze polyester shantung), then use your scissors to trim off the sharp corner and round all the edges.

Step Two: Measure the diameter of your tree stand, then use a measuring tape to mark the radius (half the diameter).  Cut the corner off in a round shape.

Step Three:  Unfold your tree skirt, then cut a slit to provide an opening to wrap around tree. 

Step Four: Hem inside circle and edges of opening.  If you seek perfection on the inside circle, cut slits in the fabric as you go around to prevent puckering.

Step Five:  Stitch your strips of 7” faux fur together to form 300” in total length. 

Step Six:  With your base fabric turned right side up, and your fur turned upside down, attach the two with your sewing machine.  Your fur will eventually flip over the top. 

To achieve this ruffled look . . .

Pinch your fabric with your fingers as you sew around the skirt to form a ruffle.

No need to hem the bottom of an acrylic faux fur fabric that has a nylon backing like this since it won’t fray. 

Step Seven (optional):  Attach decorative trim with sewing machine   

That’s all folks.  A few straight stitches in one afternoon led to this. 

I’m smitten this season with this combination of cocoa and pink !

This skirt adds just a little touch of luxury to my tree.  The best news ?  It only cost me $30 dollars and two hours to make !  

I’m signing up with Kimba’s DIY day too.

This year I was inspired to create some decorative pillows with felt. The nice thing about felt is that it is inexpensive, it doesn’t fray, and it adds just the right amount of coziness for those upcoming winter months.  I wanted to create something bold, something stylish, but nothing too busy.  Poinsettias were my inspiration. 

Here’s what I came up with:  

Red version, up close:

If you want to create your own version of these simple sew poinsettia pillows, here’s the step-by-step.

Simple Sew Poinsettia Pillows

Supplies for a 14 to 18” pillow:  pillow insert, 2/3 yard of felt for the pillow form; 1/2 yard of felt for the petals and button; button cover kit or color coordinated button, zipper and thread to match. 

Step One: Cut a single petal out of felt, then use it as your template to create 12 large petals.  Repeat to create 8 to 12 medium petals. 

Step Two:  On one side of your pillow form, start by centering two petals, and sewing them to your pillow front two at a time.  Sew only halfway up each petal to allow the edges to pop off the pillow form. 

Step Three:  Work your way around in sets of two petals, slowly layering the flower pattern with the addition of each set of petals.  Start with the large petals, then add the medium petals on top.  Again, only sew halfway to allow the petals to curl up off the pillow. 

The nicest part about sewing your petals only halfway is it forms a crease in the petal which helps it curl, and then pop right off the pillow form to make a bold statement, even from across the room.

Step Four:  Use your button kit to create a felt covered button for the center of your flower.  Attach your button with a needle and thread.   

Step Five:  Turn your poinsettia inside out, and sew all three sides together to fit your pillow form, whether it’s 18” or 14” or anything in between.  Sew just the corners of the fourth side to prep for installing your zipper. 

Step Six:  Attach zipper foot to machine.  With your pillow form inside out, turn your zipper upside down, and sew each side to the pillow. 

That’s it, easy peasy !  The greatest part about using a zipper is you can take the pillow cover right off and use the pillow insert the rest of the year. 

Another alternative, rather than sewing your poinsettia onto a pillow cover, is to simply create the flower as described in steps 1-4, and attach to an ordinary pillow with a piece of velcro. 

For the holidays, these look like little presents embellished with a bold botanical. 

For the green version, I used cozy corduroy. 

This version sits in my family room, and adds a fresh seasonal touch to the existing green tones in the space. 

I’m definitely keeping the green one.  However, the two below are for sale in my Etsy shop ! I’m offering just these two, so if you really want one, be sure to pick it up quick !  

More great pillow designs with felt for this season:

From top, left to right:  Bobby Berk pillow; Alexandra Ferguson pillow; Crate+Barrel pillows; Classics and Country snowflake pillow. 

If pillows are not your thing, take a glance at this poinsettia themed decor:

Rugs from Frontgate and Ballard Designs

 Poinsettia candle; Swarovski ornament; flocked ribbon at Target; Tea for Two; glass ball ornaments. 

Are you creating anything new for your home this holiday season ? 

Off to visit my friends at the Material Girl fabric store I went, to select my fabric.  Which designer should I choose?  Heather Bailey ?  Amy Butler?  How about both ?!  Today, I came up with my own version of a reversible apron – just for futzing around the kitchen.   No pattern at all – just a series of simple steps and straight stitches on my sewing machine.   

Here’s a peek at the final apron, and my step by step.

Simple Sew Reversible Apron with Pockets – No Pattern Necessary

Supplies:

1. I yard each of two complimentary fabrics
2. Matching thread
3. Ruffle or trim detail (optional)

Step One:  Fold both yards of fabric in half and cut to make two pieces each 18” x 45”.  Take one of each size piece of each fabric and turn them so that the patterns are inside out.  Pin bottom of apron and sew straight stitch to form bottom of apron.  Flip right side out and press with iron for a crisp hemmed bottom. 

Step Two:  For pocket, cut piece of remaining fabric from leftover 18” x 45” piece of fabric twice as large as you want your pocket to be.  Fold fabric in half, and align raw edges of fabric.  Fold under 1/2 inch along bottom of pocket, then pin raw edges to single side of fabric.  Do not sew to both pieces of fabric, just the one side. 

Pin sides of pocket to apron, then top stitch all around to form clean straight pocket.

If you want additional trim, top stitch ruffle or trim to pocket.  I chose old fashioned eyelet for a retro look. 

  For an additional pocket on the other side, simply repeat the above steps. 

Step Three:  To complete sides of apron, double fold over the seam, then sew with straight stitch. 

Step Four:  For the top, you can do a double fold over again like with the sides.  I chose to give the front an additional waistband.  Cut a piece of fabric about 5 inches wide from the leftover scrap fabric.

Fold the fabric under about 1/2 inch, and pin the raw edge to the top of your apron.  Sew waistband to single side of apron. 

Double roll your hem over the top of the other side of apron, secure with pins, and stitch closed with sewing machine.

Step Five: To make ties, cut 45” long strips of fabric approximately 5 inches wide.  Flip inside out and stitch raw edges together.  Once sewn together, use safety pin fastened to end of fabric tie and insert into tie.  Using safety pin, work through fabric in order to bring fabric tie right side out.   

Insert raw end of ties into waistband, then secure with sewing machine.  Finish off end of other side with a double fold seam. 

That’s all folks.  A simple sew reversible apron by a self proclaimed non-sewer working without a pattern.  Not bad for my first attempt !

Floral fabric is Heather Bailey’s ‘Wallpaper Roses’ from her Pop Garden series, and the stripe fabric is Amy Butler’s ‘Daisy Chain’ series. 

I really couldn’t wait to break in the first version of my reversible apron.  Two aprons for the price of one !   Next month, I want to make more of these for hostess gifts for the holidays. 

Please don’t forget to click on over to visit Kim at NewlyWoodwards to see her own holiday version of a simple sew apron.  I just love it  – and now I want one !

And if you want a list of Heather Bailey and Amy Butler fabrics currently in stock at Material Girl fabric store, I’ve got the goods right in my inbox.  Just drop me a line and it’s yours.