Last week, I finished the laundry room makeover, and many of you inquired about the window treatment.  Here’s the play-by-play on how I made this fixed flat fold shade.

The room is on the second story and never in need of darkness.  I’ve made roman shades before, but this time I made it a fixed shade.  Yep, it’s true, this one’s a big fat faux, fake & phony – it doesn’t go up and down.   I wanted just the ‘look’ of a functioning flat fold roman shade since I never intended to raise or lower it for light control.   When I was researching fixed shades online, I found this fantastic tutorial by Darby and I was completely inspired.  

This is a very simple sew project that anyone can do, if you can sew a straight stitch on a sewing machine.  Since this is an outside mount shade, I measured the width of my window (48”), then added 2 inches on each side.  The total width of the shade = 52”.  I allowed one inch extra on each side for the hem = 54” before sewing the liner and fabric together. 

On a large flat surface, layer your blackout liner on top of your decorative fabric (the upside down version of what you see), then smooth out any ripples or bubbles and pin them together.   Sew together on three sides with straight stitch on sewing machine. 

Next, pin your fabric to your liner every 12” horizontally and every 8” vertically.  With a sewing machine (or by hand), stitch your liner to your fabric using a complementary thread.  Do this to avoid puckering, to secure your liner to your decorative fabric, and to prevent your liner if from pulling away from your decorative fabric when it hangs above the window.  

With a functioning shade, this would be achieved by stitching the loop tape and rings to the back, but since this is a fixed shade, the small stitches are essential to ensure your fabric hangs without sagging.   

If adding decorative ribbon, do so with complementary thread or no sew fabric glue. 

To create a crisp corner, pinch the ribbon and fold it under the horizontal side – secure with a sewing machine or fabric glue. 

When your ribbon and fabric glue is dry, lay out your fabric on a large flat surface to  create your folds.   Once you’ve determined your folds, measure the fabric to make sure your shade is length that you want for your window treatment. 

After you measure the folds, stitch them together on the sides with a needle and thread. 

I also loosely stitched the folds together along on the back of the shade to prevent sagging in the middle.   

Insert a dowel rod at the bottom of each fold to keep a smooth line across the bottom.

Staple your fabric shade to your strip of wood and you’re ready to hang it up !

To secure to your wall, lift the fabric and screw the wood directly into your wall studs. 

That’s it, a simple sew project that adds a fixed fabric window treatment to your space !

If you want to create a fully functioning flat fold shade, you can buy a kit which includes the cord, cord lock and cleat, screw eyes, tape and rings – I’ve spied them at Joann’s and other fabric stores – the kit includes all the instructions to make a roman shade – OR . . . you can also check out this functioning roman shade I made last year for my master bath !

Darn it, why did I have to spy those bolts of faux fur ?  I was completely stopped in my tracks.  I couldn’t think about stockings, I could only see a fabulous tree skirt trimmed in that cream colored fur.  I’ve never ever ever had a tree skirt -  it’s one of those luxuries I’ve just never bothered to purchase.  In years past, I simply wrapped a piece of crimson velvet around my tree trunk.  In truth, that worked just fine since the fabric always seemed to be covered up with Christmas presents relatively quickly. 

This year, after spying that fur, I just had to make myself an authentic tree skirt.  I wanted a skirt with a luxurious look, but without the big price tag. 

So I came up with this purty little number. 

Here’s the quick and easy way to make this simple sew faux fur trimmed tree skirt in one afternoon.

Supplies

1. One square piece of base fabric (velvet, polyester blend, or felt – your choice).  If your fabric has a width of 54” on the bolt, then purchase the same length. 
2. Enough 7′’ strips of faux fur to make 300” inches in length.  
3. Three yards decorative trim (optional)

Step One:  Fold your square piece of fabric into quarters (I chose bronze polyester shantung), then use your scissors to trim off the sharp corner and round all the edges.

Step Two: Measure the diameter of your tree stand, then use a measuring tape to mark the radius (half the diameter).  Cut the corner off in a round shape.

Step Three:  Unfold your tree skirt, then cut a slit to provide an opening to wrap around tree. 

Step Four: Hem inside circle and edges of opening.  If you seek perfection on the inside circle, cut slits in the fabric as you go around to prevent puckering.

Step Five:  Stitch your strips of 7” faux fur together to form 300” in total length. 

Step Six:  With your base fabric turned right side up, and your fur turned upside down, attach the two with your sewing machine.  Your fur will eventually flip over the top. 

To achieve this ruffled look . . .

Pinch your fabric with your fingers as you sew around the skirt to form a ruffle.

No need to hem the bottom of an acrylic faux fur fabric that has a nylon backing like this since it won’t fray. 

Step Seven (optional):  Attach decorative trim with sewing machine   

That’s all folks.  A few straight stitches in one afternoon led to this. 

I’m smitten this season with this combination of cocoa and pink !

This skirt adds just a little touch of luxury to my tree.  The best news ?  It only cost me $30 dollars and two hours to make !  

I’m signing up with Kimba’s DIY day too.

This year I was inspired to create some decorative pillows with felt. The nice thing about felt is that it is inexpensive, it doesn’t fray, and it adds just the right amount of coziness for those upcoming winter months.  I wanted to create something bold, something stylish, but nothing too busy.  Poinsettias were my inspiration. 

Here’s what I came up with:  

Red version, up close:

If you want to create your own version of these simple sew poinsettia pillows, here’s the step-by-step.

Simple Sew Poinsettia Pillows

Supplies for a 14 to 18” pillow:  pillow insert, 2/3 yard of felt for the pillow form; 1/2 yard of felt for the petals and button; button cover kit or color coordinated button, zipper and thread to match. 

Step One: Cut a single petal out of felt, then use it as your template to create 12 large petals.  Repeat to create 8 to 12 medium petals. 

Step Two:  On one side of your pillow form, start by centering two petals, and sewing them to your pillow front two at a time.  Sew only halfway up each petal to allow the edges to pop off the pillow form. 

Step Three:  Work your way around in sets of two petals, slowly layering the flower pattern with the addition of each set of petals.  Start with the large petals, then add the medium petals on top.  Again, only sew halfway to allow the petals to curl up off the pillow. 

The nicest part about sewing your petals only halfway is it forms a crease in the petal which helps it curl, and then pop right off the pillow form to make a bold statement, even from across the room.

Step Four:  Use your button kit to create a felt covered button for the center of your flower.  Attach your button with a needle and thread.   

Step Five:  Turn your poinsettia inside out, and sew all three sides together to fit your pillow form, whether it’s 18” or 14” or anything in between.  Sew just the corners of the fourth side to prep for installing your zipper. 

Step Six:  Attach zipper foot to machine.  With your pillow form inside out, turn your zipper upside down, and sew each side to the pillow. 

That’s it, easy peasy !  The greatest part about using a zipper is you can take the pillow cover right off and use the pillow insert the rest of the year. 

Another alternative, rather than sewing your poinsettia onto a pillow cover, is to simply create the flower as described in steps 1-4, and attach to an ordinary pillow with a piece of velcro. 

For the holidays, these look like little presents embellished with a bold botanical. 

For the green version, I used cozy corduroy. 

This version sits in my family room, and adds a fresh seasonal touch to the existing green tones in the space. 

I’m definitely keeping the green one.  However, the two below are for sale in my Etsy shop ! I’m offering just these two, so if you really want one, be sure to pick it up quick !  

More great pillow designs with felt for this season:

From top, left to right:  Bobby Berk pillow; Alexandra Ferguson pillow; Crate+Barrel pillows; Classics and Country snowflake pillow. 

If pillows are not your thing, take a glance at this poinsettia themed decor:

Rugs from Frontgate and Ballard Designs

 Poinsettia candle; Swarovski ornament; flocked ribbon at Target; Tea for Two; glass ball ornaments. 

Are you creating anything new for your home this holiday season ? 

Off to visit my friends at the Material Girl fabric store I went, to select my fabric.  Which designer should I choose?  Heather Bailey ?  Amy Butler?  How about both ?!  Today, I came up with my own version of a reversible apron – just for futzing around the kitchen.   No pattern at all – just a series of simple steps and straight stitches on my sewing machine.   

Here’s a peek at the final apron, and my step by step.

Simple Sew Reversible Apron with Pockets – No Pattern Necessary

Supplies:

1. I yard each of two complimentary fabrics
2. Matching thread
3. Ruffle or trim detail (optional)

Step One:  Fold both yards of fabric in half and cut to make two pieces each 18” x 45”.  Take one of each size piece of each fabric and turn them so that the patterns are inside out.  Pin bottom of apron and sew straight stitch to form bottom of apron.  Flip right side out and press with iron for a crisp hemmed bottom. 

Step Two:  For pocket, cut piece of remaining fabric from leftover 18” x 45” piece of fabric twice as large as you want your pocket to be.  Fold fabric in half, and align raw edges of fabric.  Fold under 1/2 inch along bottom of pocket, then pin raw edges to single side of fabric.  Do not sew to both pieces of fabric, just the one side. 

Pin sides of pocket to apron, then top stitch all around to form clean straight pocket.

If you want additional trim, top stitch ruffle or trim to pocket.  I chose old fashioned eyelet for a retro look. 

  For an additional pocket on the other side, simply repeat the above steps. 

Step Three:  To complete sides of apron, double fold over the seam, then sew with straight stitch. 

Step Four:  For the top, you can do a double fold over again like with the sides.  I chose to give the front an additional waistband.  Cut a piece of fabric about 5 inches wide from the leftover scrap fabric.

Fold the fabric under about 1/2 inch, and pin the raw edge to the top of your apron.  Sew waistband to single side of apron. 

Double roll your hem over the top of the other side of apron, secure with pins, and stitch closed with sewing machine.

Step Five: To make ties, cut 45” long strips of fabric approximately 5 inches wide.  Flip inside out and stitch raw edges together.  Once sewn together, use safety pin fastened to end of fabric tie and insert into tie.  Using safety pin, work through fabric in order to bring fabric tie right side out.   

Insert raw end of ties into waistband, then secure with sewing machine.  Finish off end of other side with a double fold seam. 

That’s all folks.  A simple sew reversible apron by a self proclaimed non-sewer working without a pattern.  Not bad for my first attempt !

Floral fabric is Heather Bailey’s ‘Wallpaper Roses’ from her Pop Garden series, and the stripe fabric is Amy Butler’s ‘Daisy Chain’ series. 

I really couldn’t wait to break in the first version of my reversible apron.  Two aprons for the price of one !   Next month, I want to make more of these for hostess gifts for the holidays. 

Please don’t forget to click on over to visit Kim at NewlyWoodwards to see her own holiday version of a simple sew apron.  I just love it  – and now I want one !

And if you want a list of Heather Bailey and Amy Butler fabrics currently in stock at Material Girl fabric store, I’ve got the goods right in my inbox.  Just drop me a line and it’s yours.

Well of course the handsome lad must have a proper complimentary bolster to go with it.  Is there a better way to impress the ladies ?   So I whipped up a little accent pillow to compliment his future fabric covered headboard.  I was a little envious that he was getting a special pillow of his own.  After all, we gals love our stylish suits too.  I couldn’t help but select another suit fabric to create a decorative pillow for myself.  Equal rights !

Here is brother’s:

Here is mine:

Here’s the skinny on how I made them.

Easy Peasy Simple Sew Bolster with Piping

I’m don’t consider myself a real sewer or seamstress so forgive me since I don’t use the proper lingo.  To make these pillows, I bought 2/3 yard of each fabric, some large brown buttons like you’d see on a suit, and some filler cord for piping.

I used a scrap of silk blend fabric leftover from this lampshade project to make the piping.  I must confess, I was terrified of piping for years.  Then I found out that all it takes is switching out the snap on presser foot on your sewing machine to the miniature version for an up close and personal seam.  I felt a little foolish.  But now I’m a self taught piping pro !

Next, I cut a piece of fabric large enough to wrap around my bolster and two strips about five inches wide for the sides.

Riveting photo, isn’t this ?   I mean, seriously stimulating.

I attached my piping to the long strip of fabric that I used to form the length of the bolster.

Then I flipped it over and used the existing seam as the perfect guide to attach the strip in order to form the side of the bolster.

I repeated for the other side, then pinned the long seam inside out and sewed it together.

Once the long seam was done, I turned it right side out, and inserted my bolster (which is really just my roll of batting wrapped in thin cotton lining.  Ssshhh).  Then I hand stitched the sides by folding over approximately every two inches.

Attach a button to hide the threads and you’re done !

The bolster is in temporary residence in the living room until it finds its new home next week.

Velvet settee will be broken hearted to part with bolster buddy.

Next, I created this little sweetie for the home office.

For the square version, I created some more piping, then used my pillow form to size the piping around the first side of my fabric and attach with pins.

I attached the piping to the fabric with my sewing machine.  Then I used the seam on the opposite side to attach the second piece of fabric to make the pillow.

One of the nice things about working with straight patterns like this is they give me a guide so I can attempt to keep my seams straight.  I’d be all over the map without them.

I left the bottom part of the pillow open, inserted my pillow form, then hand stitched the bottom closed.

I tufted the center of the pillow and added a decorative suit style button.   Again, my apologies for these less than technical directions.  Blame my amateur sewing skills and rudimentary knowledge.

I really like this brown and blue plaid fabric.

I think it adds just the right touch to my home office.

There you have it folks, my take on decorative pillows made with suit fabric.  I can’t wait to show you little brother’s upgraded room – you’ll love the before and after.

When you step out of the shower or bath, what is your first layer of choice, after drying off your bum with your towel?  Are you a robe person?  Do you immediately dress?  Or do you dance around to bad 80s metal in your skivvies?  (Don’t tell us, if the latter is you.)

Quite frankly, I am none of the above.  (Although Mr. CG loves to belt 80s rock ballads while shaving, but don’t tell him I told you.)  Robes make me sweaty (except on the coldest mornings), and I can’t imagine getting dressed right away.  And I’m much too bashful to run around in my underwear.  Day after day, I turn to a spa towel wrap because it covers me with cozy terry cloth, but frees up my arms for all that I must accomplish between 7 and 8 a.m.

My old storebought spa wrap was getting a bit tattered after years of use, so I thought I’d just make myself a new one.  My five year old daughter is just as “anti-robe” as I am (“It’s too sweaty mommmmmmiiiiiieeeeeee” ) so I also made her one too. 

One clearance towel + 1/2 yard of cute cotton fabric + one afternoon = glam spa towel wrap.

Here is the pink version I made for my girl:

Let me say this loud and clear.  When it comes to sewing, I am an amateur.  I can thread my machine and sew a straight stitch, but that’s about it.  I am learning a bit more with each sewing project, but truly I say to you, my skills are very basic.  So when I say that this is a simple sew project, I mean it.

Here is the grown up version:

Turn a towel and some fabric into a stylish spa wrap for you, your child, a friend, or family member.  It’s easy !

How to Make a Simple Sew Towel Wrap:

Supplies:

1. Large towel of choice (make sure it’s long enough to wrap around your body)
2. Matching thread
3. 1.5 inch elastic
4. Velcro strip
5. Optional: washcloth if you want a pocket
6. Optional: prewashed cotton fabric of choice for pleated detail

A quick note on towel selection before I proceed.  The thinner the towel the better, because thick terry cloth will strain a standard sewing machine needle.  Also, be absolutely sure the towel will wrap, and overlap, around your body, not including any ribbing or trim common on the end of most modern towels (that portion you will be cutting off).  For an adult, consider buying a bath sheet, which is larger than a bath towel, to guarantee the full wrap around and necessary overlap. 

Step One:  Trim the ribbing detail off the end of your towel and hem the edge.  

Step Two:  (Optional, and only if you want the glam pleated effect like I did)  Create pleat like this.  a) Cut 5 inch strip of fabric, b) fold fabric like a sandwich edge to edge, c) run strip of fabric through sewing machine and pinch pleat every inch.

Attach pleat to the side of your wrap that will overlay and show on top.

  Moda Oh Cherry Oh fabric

Step Three:  Create casing for upper elastic band like this.  a) Fold over top of towel and sew a 2 inch seam, b) with a safety pin attached to your elastic, pinch elastic through your casing, and c) create gathering with cloth, and anchor elastic in place with sewing machine. 

Step Four (Optional, and only if you want a pocket).  Using a washcloth, trim three sides to size, and allow 1 inch for inside seam.  Pin the bottom of your washcloth to your spa wrap and attach with sewing machine.  Do your best to seam the sides as well.  I found it easier to simply hand stitch the sides of my pocket to the towel wrap with a needle and thread. 

If this photo appears convoluted, that’s because it is.  I’ve pinned the bottom of my washcloth to the towel, and measured my pleated fabric accordingly.  Then I attached my pleated fabric and stitched the internal bottom seam of the pocket with my machine.

Step Five:  For your closure, attach Velcro to inside of wrap with sewing machine.  Now would be a good time to mention that you should sew very slowly through this stage, or better yet, turn the needle by hand to avoid breakage.

My impatience brought me this. 

Step Six: (Optional, if you want straps)  For my daughter’s spa wrap, I added some straps from the ribbing that was part of her original fuchsia colored towel.  I simply repurposed it by folding it over, and with a simple seam, creating some straps for her shoulders. 

Final result with straps:

Here is the mini spa towel wrap that I made for my girl with a towel, cotton fabric, elastic, and some Velcro.

For the bottom of my daughter’s towel wrap, I also added a ruffle in terry cloth and pleats in cotton fabric, following the same procedure with the terry cloth that I did in Step Two. 

How charming is this little ruffle and pleated fabric at the bottom?

I kept the grown up version strapless, but added the glam pleated pocket and trim.

Who says you can’t be glamorous even in the bathroom?

Each one of my homemade spa towel wraps took me about 2 hours to finish, and cost me less than $10 dollars since both my towels were on clearance. 

Imagine the possibilities !  You could keep it simple and streamlined, or add darling little buttons, embroider a monogram, or embellish with your trim of choice.  Or create a beach version with a colorful beach towel. 

One final plea.  Professional sewers: Take pity on me.  Tell me if there is an easier way to accomplish all that I have pronounced.  Non sewers:  Do not be intimidated.  I couldn’t sew to save my life three years ago, and I just decided to teach myself.  Purchase a simple machine, new or like my older model, and just start a simple project.  You’ll be patting yourself on the back in no time. 

And if all of this makes you dizzy, then check out these alternatives online:

Juicy Couture Spa Wrap, $85;  Victoria’s Secret, $28.50; Target Rugby Stripe, $15; Company Store $32

Happy bathing friends. 

I really needed an extra chair in my new home office for a co-worker or a visitor.  So when I spotted one on the floor of the local thrift for $15 dollars, I quickly grabbed it with the intention of repainting and recovering the seat.  In anticipation of my friend Amanda’s Decorating Dilemma’s party at Serenity Now, yesterday I repainted the chair, and recovered the seat this morning. 

Here’s a glimpse of the Before and After:

A question for anyone who knows vintage chairs.  This label was attached to the underside of the chair.  Is this a Drexel Heritage label?  It has a registered trademark symbol.  Or is it simply another furniture company named Heritage?  Please, I must know.  Google taught me nothing.

Transforming My Thrift Store Heritage Chair:

Step One: Remove seat cushion and existing fabric.  This seat was very well constructed so I needed both a screwdriver and pliers to remove the fabric.

Step Two:  I sanded the existing paint job to remove debris, varnish, and some chipping paint. 

Step Three:  Prime baby prime.

Step Four:  You know what I’m going to say, right?  When my primer was dry, I gave the chair two coats of the great ‘Heirloom White’. 

Step Five:  I liked how the original chair had some hand painted elements highlighting the detail.  I repeated the same effect with a small artist’s paintbrush, but with less ostentation and a more modern color.  I used the same acrylic paint that I used for this mirror project. 

Step Six:  When my paint was fully dry, I applied a thin coat of Wipe On Polyurethane to protect my painted finish.

I bought one yard of a textured aqua velvet Christopher Lowell fabric at Joann’s for 40% off with a coupon.  Yippee, $15 dollars for gorgeous velvet!

Step Seven:  I made a pattern with my original fabric, and then stitched a strip of fabric to the pattern to form a new cover.

One note on sewing notched inside corners.  (Is there a technical term for that?)  On an outside corner, it’s easy to simply rotate your fabric on your sewing machine to follow the curve.  On an inside corner, you have to allow for extra fabric to pool underneath so that your fabric will corner correctly, and your cushion will sit right on your chair.  Lesson learned the hard way today.  I’m still bitter, so I don’t want to talk about it. 

Step Eight:  I used my original foam, which was in great condition and lacked any odors.  I stapled the new cushion cover to the underside of my seat base, then reattach my new seat cushion to chair.

Isn’t she a fair little chair?

And a lovely addition to my office, currently under remodel.

Have you ever known the satisfaction of transforming a chair ?  Do tell.

“U.G.L.Y. You ain’t got no alibi, you ugly, yeah yeah, you ugly.”

Sometimes you own see a piece of furniture, and at that moment it strikes you.  You simply must grab some paint and transform the piece that very instant.  When I feel the need, the need for speed, I turn to my trusty spray paint. 

I had this extremely unattractive “cherry” bench that I bought online years ago.  Real cherry wood is darker and richer.  But in my case, it was one of those moments of desperation when you 1) pretend the online photos aren’t all that bad and 2) need something right now and you don’t think the ugliness factor all the way through.

Exhibit A:

I am not a wicker person, and I typically steer clear of reddish cherry wood tones.  So what prompted me years ago to throw good money at something so faux?  A question Mr. CG has asked several times – I usually just change the subject.  But not today.  Today, I faced my ugly reddish wicker basketed bench* head on. 

*My sincerest apologies to anyone who owns said “ugly reddish wicker basketed bench”.

What is that color anyway? 

Must. Address. Problem. Now.

Step One:  Sand edges.

Step Two: Spray primer.

Step Three:  Miracle worker ‘Heirloom White’.

Step Four:  I located the plain Jane cushion that came with this bench in the depths of my linen closet, and with a bit of brown floral fabric, stitched up a quick little slipcover with my sewing machine with the same technique I used for these cushions.

I considered painting one of the wicker baskets for the center, but the bottom was prickly in parts and I risked scratching my paint job.  Some canvas bins might work here, or a higher quality softer bottomed basket.

Step Five:  Reattach brushed nickel knobs.  Reuse wicker baskets elsewhere.  Stack a few books.  Add a cozy blanket.  Voila !  Now I have myself a more Pottery Barnish (not a word) bench. 

Once again, the ‘Before’ and ‘After’:

After I completed painting this bench, I posted some words in a discussion about the pros and cons of spray paint.  It’s true, and I can’t deny it.  The smooth and uniform finish of perfectly applied spray paint on wood makes my heart go pitter patter. 

Now this bench is perfect for extra seating at this pedestal table, lounging, reading a book, or enjoying a quick bite. 

What about you?  Have you ever been stricken with the affliction to paint something immediately and without hesitation ? 

Here’s a peek at the end result:

Here’s a look at what it was before I reupholstered it: 

Deconstructed:

We all know the best way to understand how an object functions is to literally take it apart.  So that’s what I did – I ripped the bottom off of the ottoman and examined its insides to understand how to construct one in the first place.  I wasn’t surprised by what I found.  A basic ottoman is made with very basic construction. 

Take a look inside:

As you can see, it would not be complicated to build a basic ottoman.  All you would need is some plywood or particle board, cut to the shape you want, and screwed together to form a box or rectangle.  Add some basic supports for stabilization and for placement of your ottoman’s feet.  If you desire tufting, drill some holes in the top.

Here’s a look at the threaded anchor where the feet fit:

In addition to the basic box, purchase some bun or tapered feet from a home improvement store, and stain or paint them to the color you choose.  Fit a double ended threaded bolt inside the feet, then screw the feet into the anchor in the frame of your ottoman. 

The final step would be to add a piece of foam to the top, and secure it with batting for a comfortable seat. 

Re-Tufted:

My task was to make a new slipcover for my existing ottoman, and tuft it with four new fabric covered buttons.  Making a slipcover for a small ottoman is a simple sew project. 

I didn’t find any fabric within my price range at the fabric store, so I used a pale silky blue window panel that I purchased from Target for $15.  In my opinion, 84 inches of fabric from a window panel for $15 dollars is a pretty good deal.  (“Girls in white dresses with blue satin sashes…”   Bonus points if you can name that scene.)

I used pins to attach my sides to each other, inside out, and then sewed them together. 

Now would be a very good time to say this:  I. Hate. Sewing. Corners.      I can’t stand them.  I can never get them right.  My three dimensional corners are never perfect.  So I am soliciting help from true sewers out there with real and genuine skills.  What is the secret to perfect corners ?  Help !

Even with my rudimentary sewing skills, I was able to form a fitted slipcover, and continue with my project.  I stapled my new slipcover to the ottoman, and then tufted the top with some new fabric covered buttons. 

The supplies you need to tuft a bench or ottoman are make-to-match button kits, long decorator needles, twine or strong thread (I use embroidery thread), and a staple gun.  I had some needles and thread leftover from this tufted bench project. 

Follow the instructions on the button kits to make your own buttons:

Tufting a bench or ottoman is not complicated, as long as your holes are pre-drilled.  Here’s a picture of what the predrilled holes looked like inside my ottoman before I recovered it. 

Notice how the buttons are secured with the use of thin twine and a staple gun.  I use the same technique by threading my decorator needle, pushing up the needle through the top, threading my fabric covered button, pushing the needle back down through the hole, pulling taught, and securing with a staple gun.  For a tutorial in greater detail on tufting, see this post on my tufted bench. 

Here’s an up close look at my tufting job.  Pay no attention to my less than perfect corner.  Grrrrrr. 

After all of that work, I have a new perch for my morning coffee. 

So, who wants to come over for coffee and make fun of my bad corners? 

I bargained the vendor down to $300 for my set – she didn’t want to have to load it back up on her truck, so it came home with me.  My next mission was to have custom cushions made with Sunbrella fabric, but I had sticker shock at the amount the local upholstery shops wanted to charge me for foam, batting, fabric and sewing.  So I decided to make them myself. 

Last year, I found an online retailer to custom cut high density foam and wrap it in Dacron.  I wish I could remember the retailer, but I can’t now.  But there are plenty of them online. 

Then I ordered Sunbrella fabric in ‘Dupione Maize’ to cover my cushions.  I love the color in this fabric, because up close there is a deep yellow color woven together with a bit of watery blue.

Because Sunbrella fabric is a bit expensive ($12 to $20 per yard), last year I only purchased enough to do the bottom cushions.  But last month, I ordered enough for the top cushions, hoping the colors would still match.  I was surprised and delighted to find that after a year of summer sun exposure and multiple washings, this fabric hadn’t changed. 

Here’s an up close of the bottom cushions with the fabric from last year, and the top cushions, which I just finished yesterday with the new fabric I ordered last month. 

I’m sure I will offend serious sewers out there, but my technique for sewing outdoor cushions is a bit barbaric.  I simply cut a long strip of fabric to wrap around the cushions, then pinned two rectangles to the sides, and sewed them together.

Confession: I haven’t even finished the openings yet.  Sewing zippers frustrates me to no end, so I’m just going to sew a quick seam and add some Velcro strips later so I can remove these slipcovers for washing.  But I was so tired last night, I didn’t have the energy.  Right now, the back is simply safety pinned.  Sssshhh.  Don’t tell my guests that I’m entertaining this weekend.

Here’s what the sofa looks like now, sitting in my courtyard.  This sofa is 94” long, so my 6 foot tall husband can actually lie down on it. 

Pay no attention to that one seat cushion on the chair that I have yet to finish.  But you get the idea. 

These pillows are from Target and just arrived last week.  Here is the link for the small green flower pillows and the larger floral pillows, if you love them as much as I do.   

This wall fountain is also from Target – I bought it last year, and it has a nice patina. 

For my master balcony, I redid a pair of chairs that I picked up from the local thrift.  I am really loving the new look given to this pair of chairs. I used a spray primer, Rustoleum’s ‘Heirloom White’, and added some new foam and festive fabric to upgrade these vintage chairs.  Now they sit on the balcony off my master, which sadly was unused and lacking in any decor. 

Chair Before and After:

Balcony Before:

Balcony After:

Lime green hanging hurricanes from Joann’s Fabrics, melamine pitcher from Walmart. 

Can you tell I am drawn to green patterned fabrics ?  How do you feel about decorating with green?