World Market was having a sale on 6’ x 9’ rugs and 6’ x 9’ is the magic size in my house.  6’ x 9’ fits in the family room, the dining room, and the living room too, but hot dang if it isn’t hard to find an affordable stylish 6’ x 9’ rug.   They’re always 5’ x 8’ (too small) or 8’ x 10’ (too big).  Or maybe I’m just not looking in the right places.

After I scored my new rug on clearance, I couldn’t help but notice World Market had some pretty snazzy fabric napkins in their linens department, 2 for $6 dollars, nice!

I always think pillows when I see sassy stylish cloth napkins like this, because that’s one inexpensive pillow cover if you’re willing to take the time to sew them together.  But I’ve already done that.

Then I remembered there’s a lot of you out there that don’t own a sewing machine or don’t sew, and I reckoned I could show y’all how to do it without Mr. Singer.

.

Simple No Sew Removable Pillow Covers made from Cloth Napkins:

What You’ll Need:   Two cloth napkins measuring 20” x 20”; fusible web (found at any fabric store); moist washcloth; scissors; iron.

1)  Cut one napkin down the exact middle, fold over ½ inch, then align the fusible web underneath your edge.  This is to allow for an opening in the back of your pillow cover for easy removal, and also for inserting your pillow form.  With fusible web, but instead use the cut edge to seam together with your other napkin in

{Update:  *Heather makes a brilliant point !  You don’t need to bother seaming this cut edge and you can even skip step 2 !!!  Simply use the cut edge to fuse together with your other pillow as seen in Step 4!   Just like I did with these napkin pillows, well duh now why didn’t I remember that?  Thank you Heather!}

2) Following the fusible web instructions, use a hot iron and moist washcloth to seal the seam.  Be patient, every 6 inches takes about 20 to 30 seconds for the steam to activate the webbing, but you’ll end up with a very clean seam if you do it right.  Repeat for both of the cut sides of the first napkin.

BTW: This is another great trick for hemming window panels that are too long without sewing a stitch on a machine.

3) Layer your seams one over the other, with the pattern side facing up.  Next, layer your other full napkin (the one you didn’t cut in half) on top, with the pattern facing down so that both of the pattern sides are facing each other.  They will be inside out.

4) With your fusible web, use the iron and washcloth to attach the napkins together, starting first with one side with overlapping panels.  Trim the excess fabric you don’t need, and seam the remaining sides with your fusible web.

Depending on how thick your pillow inserts are, they may pop out a bit in the back, but a simple safety pin or two will keep the opening closed.

Voila, purtay pillow covers from cloth napkins for six buckaroos each.

Me likey.

There’s that new rug too.

And another angle of the new pillows + rug.  

I played it traditional this time, but blues, creams, and traditional motifs work really well in my house.  The new rug is wool and very Ballard Designish if you ask me, but without the Ballard price tag.

That pattern should hide kid residue a lot better than the last one.

I hope.

.

One thing I wanted to change this year was the window panels.  The existing dark brown panels with a botanical pattern looked great in summertime contrasted with the crisp white slipcovers.  But in winter, with a brown rug and brown slipcovers, the whole space was looking a little, well, a little too brown.  So I opted for something lighter, and simpler.  Soft green linen look panels customized to fit my French doors.

Let’s face it.  Custom window panels are just to die for.  But they are crazy expensive.  Years ago, when I was working a high-paying full time job, I could afford to splurge on custom window panels in my living room.  Bronze silk double panels, fully lined, and sewn to my exact specifications.  Remember Hilary Swank’s gown from the Oscars of 2000 ?  It was my inspiration for the curtains in my living room that I had made by Calico Corners many years ago.  I still love them to this day.

These days, I don’t have the luxury of custom window panels.  And quite frankly, with the tips and tricks I’ve picked up over the past few years, I wouldn’t pay for custom curtains when I’ve learned how to get the look at a fraction of the cost.

For my everyday dining space, I purchased some insulated sage green panels that resemble linen, but without the wrinkled nature or the high end price.  The standard 84” length is too short and 96” is too long.  Sometimes you can’t find the longer length, or you want to save money by not purchasing the 96” panel.  For me, one of the tricks I use is to lengthen an inexpensive 84” store bought window panel by pulling out the hem and then adding some rings to the top.  I also like to give the panels a quick pleat with my sewing machine. 

The pleat can be done by hand as well, it just takes a little more time.

I attach some wood rings. . .

And I get this custom pleated look, with just a little effort.

To add more length to the bottom, I pull out the hem, iron the seam, then use fusible webbing for a clean, straight, no sew hem. 

Voila ! 

Store bought window panels in a custom length and look.

For the table, I pulled out some favorite green striped scalloped edge placemats, a plain white plate, and some gold rimmed bowls handed down from Mr. CG’s grandmother.

Add some complimentary floral napkins and a beaded napkin ring.

Don’t forget the gold rimmed wine glasses.   Necessary in my house – we love our red wine. 

Add some candlesticks and vanilla pillars.

Loving these fall pumpkins and squash. 

And my fall tablescape is born.

My fall themed dining room in warmer tones.  

Casual, with elegant touches.  And most important at this time in my life?  It’s equipped with kid friendly slipcovers !  As much as I would love cream colored button tufted beauties, that would not be practical.  These dining room chairs have changeable washable velvet slipcovers.  These are the full length Latte velvet from Ballard Designs.   I use the shorter pleated version in the same fabric to cover the side chairs. They put up with a lot of kid smudges, and still look great year after year. 

Over the years, I’ve collected an inspiration folder of amazing, swoon worthy, designer dining room spaces.  (See them featured both here and here.)  But for now what I have is perfectly lovely, and suits our family’s lifestyle so well.  Bon appétit !

I had a plain gray mousepad that I used to use in my old office, but with all of these new upgrades, the mouse pad could not be ignored.  So I recycled my old mousepad by adding a scrap of fabric I had leftover from my recent no sew fabric valance. 

Supplies:

1. Any rubber backed mousepad
2. Fusible web for bonding (called Stitch Witchery)
3. Iron, ironing board, and moist washcloth
4. Fabric of choice (avoid fabrics that are too sheer, have embroidery, or that resist fusible web due to their artificial fibers).   

First, align your fabric pattern on your upside down mousepad, then trim about an inch of fabric all around.

Next, trim a piece of fusible web to the size of your mouse pad, and fold your fabric over the webbing.  Use your hot iron and a moist washcloth to bond the fabric to the pad.  Be careful not to melt your rubber backside by avoiding any direct contact between the back and your iron.

Once you’ve done all four sides, then trim the fabric on your corners, pinch the fabric down, and use more fusible web to bond the corners to the mouse pad.

That’s all folks.  Simple, and a project you can accomplish in about 15 minutes. 

For another tutorial on how to sew a mouse pad, see this post at Craft A Week.

Or try Ashley’s Modge Podge version at Make It And Love It.

I’ve made window valances before, one in my kitchen, and another in my kids’ playroom.  So I constructed yet another valance for my home office with the same technique I’ve used before, but this time, I added a soft swag.  I found this curtain on clearance at Lowes for $7.

How to Make a No Sew Swag Window Valance:

A note on fabric choice:  Since you’ll be using a lined curtain turned on its side to construct your valance, choose a solid, or a pattern that looks good when you flip the pattern horizontal instead of vertical.

Supplies

1. Curtain panel long enough to run width (not length) of window
2. Staple gun
3. Fusible web for bonding fabric (sold as Stitch Witchery or Heat-n-Bond at fabric stores)
4. 1/2 inch x 2 inch thick pine, birch or poplar board from home improvement store, cut to length of valance
5. 1.5 inch “L” Brackets
6. Iron

Step One:  Choose where you want your valance to sit above your window, then measure the length of fabric you’ll need to cover the top of the board, and hang down over your window.  Cut fabric to chosen length.

Step Two:  Trim side of curtain panel to width of valance, plus 2 extra inches on sides.  Use the fusible web, a hot iron, and a moist cloth to bond your fabric together to form a clean hem.

Step Three:  Press your fabric with an iron to remove any wrinkles, then staple it to the top of your wood board, leaving 2 inches overlap on each side.  Trim off any excess fabric on the top. 

Step Four:  Wrap your fabric around the side of your board and secure side with a small staple.

Step Five:  Locate studs on wall, then position your “L” brackets on your valance to match up to the wall studs.  Screw valance into wall.

Step Six:  To swag your valance, pinch your fabric together, then secure with a safety pin.  If you experience too much “droop” in the middle of your valance, and it pulls away from the window’s edge, one trick is to secure your fabric to the wall underneath the fold with a small tack.  It works !

Step back and enjoy your inexpensive and homemade swag valance.

Now I just need to install those gigantic cabinets.  Oh honey, where are you?  :-)