So I wanted to bring this fun color into our home and once I found the perfect piece, this small campaign desk, off to the paint store I went to color match it!  Here’s the  desk I found at (of course) a thrift store for $40 – the hardware alone is worth that to me, but the added benefit was this desk with faux bamboo legs that would tuck nicely into the kids study/art/craft playroom.

Before:

After:

The desk was not real burled wood, but had a speckled and scratched surface, so painting it was an easy call.  I followed the same steps I’ve mentioned before, 1. Remove the hardware, 2.  Clean and scuff up the piece with a medium grit sanding wedge and 3. Prime with product designed for glossy surfaces (Zinsser is my fave).

Next, two coats of this fabulous paint!  I’ve wanted to try the Advance formula by Ben Moore and this desk was perfect candidate.  This enamel formula gives a harder finish like oil based paints but cleans up with water, I’ll definitely use it again – it comes in satin, semi-gloss and high gloss formulas.  No Floetrol needed, this paint is that good.

The color is a custom formula to match the bowl, but if you want two close matches, try ‘Grasshopper’ by Sherwin Williams or ‘Bunker Hill Green’ by Benjamin Moore.

Finally I scrubbed and polished the brass hardware and reattached it.

Now this fun Kelly green campaign desk sits in the kids’ playroom for art or homework.

I’m not alone in my love for this shade on campaign furniture, it’s been done before, so be sure to check out Emily’s campaign dresser and do you recall this set of green campaign dressers from Lonny magazine?  A gorgeous classic color!

Painted anything a bright fun color in your home lately?

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I also loved Megan’s button center and floral accents too!  I went down to my local Goodwill and saw at least a dozen sweaters to choose from.

I bought the center one for $3 bucks and brought it home.  Then I pinned this:

And a few days ago I made this! 

The flower is a lapel pin I’ve had for awhile that suits the pillow perfectly. 

I also found another gray and red striped sweater at the Goodwill for $3 and also stitched up this cozy Christmas accent pillow:

Here’s the simple how to:  First, cut your sweater to the size of your pillow form (whether square or oblong) and allow an extra inch of material all around. Turn the knit material inside out and stitch it together with a sewing machine on 3 ½ sides.  Turn right side out and stuff opening with pillow form, then hand stitch the remaining opening closed. 

Any ol’ sweater you find at a thrift store can become your next decorative accent in these upcoming chilly months!  

Linking up to the Pinterest Challenge party:

Thank you Katie, Sherry, Ana, and Erin for hosting!

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I was on the fence about whether to paint it, but thought I’d try to restore the wood first. I had heard about a product from several antique dealers that breathes new life into tired old antiques and doesn’t require the typical strip/stain/poly steps that are required to fully refurbish wood furniture. The product is Howard’s Restor-A-Finish and I thought this latest vintage piece was the perfect candidate to give it a try.

I followed the instructions and used a very fine grade steel wool (level 000) to wipe down the buffet in the direction of the wood grain, then applied two coats of the Restor-A-Finish. I also pulled off the acanthus applique attached to the back because it was bugging me, then replaced the center hardware and broken pulls with new ones lightly coated with Rub N’Buff in ‘Antique Gold’. 

Here’s a peek at the easy transformation that took about an hour.

Before:

After:

Not bad!

I grabbed these three products at my local True Value Hardware to see how well they’d perform on this buffet.

I confess, I was a little surprised. I’m not a fan of gimmicky products but after using the Restor-A-Finish, I do think the surface is much improved.  I followed up the Restor-A-Finish with the recommended Feed-N-Wax but before I did that, I tried out the Minwax Blend-Fil pencil to fill in a few deep scratches.  My response to the Blend-Fil was mixed. From a distance, the deep scratch is minimized but up close, you can see it’s a waxy filler, and on this piece the shade is a little off.   

The finish ends up being a little oily, so be sure to rub off the Restor-A-Finish as directed and don’t leave it on your wood.  Also, I noticed the product seemed to enhance the underlying deteriorating layers of original varnish. This picture doesn’t show that, and it’s very subtle, but I notice it in bright light.   

The thing that impressed me the most about the Restor-A-Finish was the removal of these small water spots on the front.

Before:

After:

If there were deeper water (or heat) marks, gentle sanding and restaining would be the real solution. I do give a thumbs up to the Feed-N-Wax. I’ve used that product a few times over the years, it smells much better and gives wood a nice luster. 

Here is my initial impression of Howard’s Restor-A-Finish:

Pros: Restor-A-Finish removes cosmetic surface water spots and minimizes scratches, it comes in several shades, and is great for beginners who don’t want to take on a full refinishing job. 

Cons:  Restor-A-Finish is really stinky but the odor dissipates quickly. It should be used only in a well ventilated area. You cannot apply poly over it, only wax, which is fine with me, but requires waxing every few months to maintain the luster. In my opinion, because of its oily nature, it enhances any imperfections that may exist in the layers of original varnish underneath. 

Bottom line, this product is like plastic surgery for furniture. It won’t return your piece to the flawless finish of its youth but it will take 10 years off, and at $12 bucks a can, that’s a pretty good price for a quick facelift.

Have you ever tried Restor-A-Finish?  What were your results?  Were you pleased or displeased? 

True Value Blog Squad legalese: “I was one of the bloggers selected by True Value to work on the DIY Squad. I have been compensated for my time commitment to the program as well as my writing about my experience. I have also been compensated for the materials needed for my DIY project. However, my opinions are entirely my own and I have not been paid to publish positive comments.”

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I spied this vintage dresser just as it was coming in the door at a local thrift shop. The wood was damaged in places, but it’s a well made piece and solid wood.  Wood putty filled the cosmetic flaws, and two coats of AS Chalk Paint in a custom mix prettied it up in a shade of barely gray almost blue.   

I’m still playing around with my two quarts of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint leftover from this mirror and this table.  This time I mixed them, using 2 parts Old White to 1 part Paris Gray (which I’m noticing has a hint of blue to it, especially after it’s waxed). 

Chalk paint easily distresses with a sanding wedge, and I follow it up with a clear paste wax – lately I’m using Johnson’s.  Rub ‘n Buff is the quickest way to freshen up vintage hardware like this and give it that ‘Antique Gold’ glow. 

This revamp only took a few hours since since there’s no priming with this kind of paint.  I even painted it indoors on a tarp since there’s little to no odor with the AS Chalk Paint.  Pics are less than stellar today since the light was fading fast, but it looks so classy in person. This piece will eventually get sold at a local shop.

What DIY projects are you up to this weekend?  I’m thinking of restaining a tabletop in between the kids’ soccer games and hoping for a little wine tasting adventure.  Wishing you all a relaxing weekend and cooler temperatures. Those of you on the east coast, stay safe! 

xo,

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Ooh, rich bluey-turquoise . . .

Make the gold hardware pop, yes that’s a must!

Yes, me likey colors of the ocean, thanks for reading my mind Andrea.

Amen sister, peacock is da bomb. 

So I busted out of my ‘just paint my furniture white’ box I fit so nicely into, and pulled off a bold shade of glossy peacock blue.  You saw the faux bamboo chest a few days ago that I dragged home from a thrift store. 

Check out this hottie now:

Now that’s what I’m talking about!

I love it, don’t you? 

From the start, this find required some minor repairs.   First, there was the chipping veneer around the top that I peeled off, then patched with some wood filler.

Next came the broken leg, with a piece of bamboo falling off.  Some wood glue and something heavy on top (two cans of primer) while the glue dried saved the day.

Now it looks like something you’d pay top dollar for on 1st Dibs (double fist bump to the chest, followed up by peace sign to the crowd):

Paisley print panels in vivid shades of teal, lime green and soft yellow found on sale at Pier One.

The genie lamp was also a Pier One find, on sale and very pretty in brushed nickel, but given a coat of gold leaf spray paint, it plays off those awesome campaign pulls. 

Bowl from Marshalls ($3 dolla, holla!), the vintage framed partridge bird patches also found thrifting last weekend, funny how they fit right in, I LOVE them.  That vase was on a clearance rack at Michaels for $5 bucks and since I collect white ceramics in all shapes that are priced under $10 I just had to have it.  Collecting simple white modern ceramics in all sizes is an addiction of mine because they’re just so darn versatile and look good anywhere from tabletop to bookcase to mantel.  Those fat jungle leaf clippings are from my royal empress tree in my backyard, yo. 

After all these years of teaching myself how to refinish furniture and working with all sorts of paints and products, I still believe if you choose to spray paint a piece of furniture, you can achieve a really nice look if you follow certain steps.  

Here are the ones I followed for this faux bamboo chest:

Remove all hardware and/or hinges. 1) Clean off any debris, fill holes and make repairs (mentioned above, and here); then coat your furniture with a bonding primer;  2) when dry, lightly sand with a fine grit sanding wedge to remove any drips or residue; 3) wipe down any dust with a cloth; 4) freshen the hardware with metallic spray paint (I used ‘Gold Leaf’ by Krylon); 5) apply two light coats of paint with two cans of Rust-Oleum spray paint in ‘Night Tide’ gloss allowing to dry in between coats 6) when dry, wipe down any residue with cloth; 7) apply protective coat to seal and protect. 

Tip #1:  when spray painting furniture, especially drawer or door fronts, it is best to apply the spray paint when the surface of the door or drawer is facing up, meaning don’t paint where it naturally sits in place.  Remove the drawer or door and and lay it down on a painter’s tarp so that the surface you’re about to paint is facing the sky.  I find that makes for more even application and reduces the potential for drips. 

Tip #2: often with spray paint, along long surfaces especially on furniture you will see  a splotchy finish, which I mentioned in this article about spray paint FAQs.  This is frustrating because in any light, the color is even, but the finish is not.  I’ve grown increasingly bothered by this, which is why I often turn to a safe bet: painting a piece with a roller/brush combo and latex paint.  However, there is an appeal to knocking out a quick paint job on a small piece of furniture with a few cans of spray paint, so I’ve been experimenting to get rid of the potential for a splotchy finish.  I think I found the solution. 

The best way to get rid of a splotchy surface that results along long flat surfaces from spray paint is to coat it with one of these protective brush-on formulas with a cheapo sponge brush.  Either one works great (Varathane or Minwax Polycrylic).  They are both water based, and they can both be applied to fully cured oil based completely dry  spray painted surfaces.

Don’t worry that they look milky in the can, they always dry clear.  Choose satin or gloss depending on your preference, and be sure to work with them when the temperature is between 60 and 75 degrees because they dry fast, and even faster in really warm weather. 

To appease both myself and my friend JJ, I chose a gloss finish:

And that, my friends, is how this funky faux bamboo chest . . .

. . . turned into this fabulous accent piece. 

K8 I hope I’ve convinced you:

I spent $25 on this chest, and $8 bucks on spray paint.  By the way, Rust-Oleum’s Night Tide is the perfect shade of peacock blue, I’ve used it here and here in the past and I find it at Lowe’s and Orchard Supply Hardware, but all stores vary their selection.

The rest of the supplies I had on hand, so this is a $33 dollar investment for me and I couldn’t be more thrilled!  What I mostly love is the statement in now makes in the guest room.  Lesson learned: as tempting and lovely as it is, don’t always play it safe with white, black or gray.  Every room needs a pop of color so why not make it a piece of furniture?  We should all push ourselves to embrace bold colors to bring personality to our spaces. 

Now it’s your turn, so go on.  Paint something blue or pink or green or yellow or red.  It will make you feel really really good.

Thanks so much to Apartment Therapy for this feature!

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Two days ago, my shipment arrived.

If the French distressed look is what you’re going for . .  this paint will do the trick.

This is ‘Paris Grey’.  It’s quite lovely. 

I mentioned awhile back I had a thrift store mirror sitting in my garage.  I loved its shape, especially the arched cathedral top.  Since I planned to have it sit in the foyer, I didn’t want it to be dark wood because the dresser below is already a dark stain.  I saw the mirror above it in a complementary distressed paint treatment. 

Like this:

I paid $16 for this mirror, so it was the perfect candidate for the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint experiment. 

My review, thus far:

What I love:  This paint is very easy to use, it’s water based, has no odor, and has a nice consistency for flat paint.  I was able to cover my mirror’s frame in just one coat.  This paint goes on very quickly, I painted this mirror in ten minutes, which is a heck of a lot quicker than my traditional method (primer + latex paint).  The chalk paint cleans up with water and a little goes a long way.  According to the company, there is no primer required and the paint will stick to varnished furniture or melamine surfaces. 

There is little open time since this paint dries very fast.  I noticed that with a brush, there were visible strokes when wet due to the quick drying time, but when the paint dried they virtually disappeared.  The paint dries very quickly (in about 20 minutes), and has a chalky finish.  Once it’s dry, you can easily distress with a sanding wedge, the paint comes off in tiny dust particles.  

What concerns me:  This paint is very expensive: one quart cost me $39 from my closest California retailer House of Anne.  ($51 total with shipping, ouch.)  That is one pricey quart of paint.  Not gallon.  Quart.  Also, what is it about this paint that allows one to skip the primer step?  What is the special additive?  I couldn’t find the answer on the Annie Sloan website or anywhere on the internet, so I wrote to them. 

I’m always concerned about durability, you can read Annie’s answers to my inquiries in our Q&A.  I’m still curious about the formula, and want to know what exactly distinguishes this paint from all the other water based paints which allows one to skip the primer step.  Annie is keeping her ingredients a secret.

Also, this paint is available in only 24 colors, which you can mix to create your own colors, but at $30+ a quart, that adds up quick. 

To finish off my mirror, I gave it one coat of clear paste wax (Johnson’s) which slightly deepened the color.  I did not purchase the waxes from House of Anne, they are an additional $25 for each wax (clear or dark).  However, the chalk paint + Johnson’s paste wax combo looks really great up on the wood mirror, and I can say I will certainly use this paint again (after all, I have most of my quart left!)  There’s a dresser revamp I have in mind, and this ‘Paris Gray’ will be perfect for it.  I do want to see how it performs over a long flat surface that gets a lot of wear and tear. 

My first impression is a good one thus far.  This ‘Paris Grey’ chalk paint looks aged when dry and distresses exceptionally well.

Bottom line:  If you can stomach the cost of one quart, then I encourage you to try if for yourself.  I can’t vouch for its durability over time, but I’m loving the result so far.  If you love a flat finish and a European distressed patina, then this paint will give you the look you’re going for.  

I can’t deny my $16 thrift store mirror looks fabulous in our entry.

What say you?  Have you tried Annie Sloan’s Chalk Paint?

What do you think of this brand ? 

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There are plenty of people who don’t care to shop thrift stores.  Perhaps they dislike or are afraid of used goods, or their local thrift stores carry nothing but useless junk.  I’ve seen my share of thrift stores that carried mostly unusable items, but I’ve also scored a few finds in thrift stores that could be resold for hundreds of dollars.  It all depends on the particular store, they’re all so very different.  I’m asked now and then for my best advice on thrifting, so I thought it time to put them all in one place!

Here are a few of my tips for shopping thrift stores:

Stay Focused.   When you find a great thrift store, it’s like shopping in any second hand forum.  Your visit can quickly turn into ”Hey that’s cute” or “Oooh, I like that too!” and before you know it, your tab has climbed higher than you planned, and you’ve brought home things you don’t really need.  Before you walk through the door, remember what you’re there for.  Stay focused on your needs and your budget.    

Know The Sales Days.  Find out when your local store has sales and show up early.  My local St. Vincent de Paul has furniture sales when they have too much in stock (typically after a big donation weekend) so I’m in the habit of stopping in every Monday or Tuesday to see what’s new.  My mom loves to shop at the Goodwill on Tuesdays when anyone over 55 gets a 25% discount.  She’s found so many designer labels and even items that are brand new and have never been worn, you just never know what you’ll find!  It pays to know when your local store offers discounts. 

Seek that Diamond in the Rough.  Shopping a thrift store can be hit and miss, and you never know what you’ll find inside, it just depends on what is in stock on a given day.  For me, this is the most exciting part, searching through the real junk to discover a great find.  It’s that treasure hunt that keeps me coming back time and again. 

Typically, the good stuff is buried under the bad.  Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty and shuffle things around to find something worth buying.  Also, keep in mind that time is money.   Always consider the time and cost of refurbishing a piece.  If it is one that will need to be completely restored, stained or painted, factor in that time and energy into the purchase price. 

Full Inspection.  Give anything you contemplate bringing home a full inspection.   Often, the staff will have already weeded through the donations for stains, rips, or unusable items, nevertheless, take the time to thoroughly inspect the item.  With furniture, pull every drawer and open every door.  Look for signs of quality construction, like solid wood and dovetail joints.   

Be Willing to Walk Away.  Half the time I enter a thrift store I see absolutely nothing I could use.  I see pieces I could refurbish, but I (try to) resist the urge to bring them home if they serve no purpose.  I’m an avid thrifter and my friends know it, so I always have a list of things I’m looking for, for me or for them.  After a quick scour, if I don’t see it, I walk out and come back to shop another day. 

Beware the Cooties.   So many people freak out at the thought of bed bugs, mites, or strange odors.  This concern is legitimate, as there have been outbreaks of bedbugs in many urban areas, so always take precautions.  If you bring home fabric, be sure wash it in hot water to kill any germs.  Resist the urge to buy anything upholstered you’ll sleep or sit on unless you plan to have it professionally cleaned or reupholstered before you bring it into your home, and examine every piece of furniture for any signs of infestation or decay.  If your furniture find has an odor, perhaps due to a previous life in a smoker’s residence, there are several remedies.  Baking soda, white vinegar, witch hazel, Borax, and Murphy’s Oil Soap all help neutralize odors in second hand furniture. 

Shop Without Kids.  Just like any treasure hunt at a flea market or clearance sale, kids have a little patience, so if you intend to hit a few stores, leave those little ones at home.  That said, I think it does set a good example to take kids to thrift stores now and then (which I do sometimes) so they learn the benefits, but must most of the time I go alone.  I find I can’t spend the time I need searching for the good stuff if I have to attend to their wants or keep my eye on their every move. 

Ask For a Lower Price.  I am never afraid to ask for a lower price.  The key is to talk to the manager on site, not just any clerk working in the store.  If you’re a regular, chances are they will give you a discount.  If not, the good news is you’re money is going to a worthy cause and you are already getting a deal, but it never hurts to ask, so be brave and just do it.  But be nice!  If you’re a frequent thrifter, then the sales staff will recognize you.  Be as nice as you can be, ask their name and remember it.  When they see you walk through the door, they’ll treat you well and sometimes give you a better deal.  I asked my friend Rhoda, a thrifting expert, for her best tip.  Her advice?  “Go early, take cash, and don’t be afraid to bargain!” 

Purge Often.   You know how it is, both retail and second hand purchases can quickly clutter your home, so get in the habit of purging your home often of the things you don’t use or need and donate them to your favorite thrift store!   Just this month I rid my house of clothes we’ve outgrown, and other unused items like TV trays (I’ve made a pledge we won’t eat in front of the TV), leftover toddler toys, and unused electronics.  Drop off your donation at the back door before you enter the front door.  

No doubt there are items sitting in your home that you could easily donate.  Thrift store donations are tax deductible, so be sure to ask for a receipt. 

Think Creatively.  If there ever was a tip to embrace, this would be it.  Whenever I enter a thrift store, I see things for what they could become, not what they are.  Take this coffee table I recently spied for $15 at my local Goodwill.   This table has the potential to be a completely amazing bench ~ imagine it upholstered with new foam and fabric and those fantastic legs given a fresh coat of paint.  Completely stunning in an entry, and one of a kind too!

Have a vision every time you thrift!   To quote my friend Mr. Goodwill Hunting,  "Be able to look beyond what you see and have vision for what something can be.  You can mix thrifted lamps and a side board with Pottery Barn lamp shades, and still have a well edited look.” 

image: Mr. Goodwill Hunting

Most thrift stores are for charity and are run by churches, noble causes, or veteran’s groups, and most people assume thrift stores exist to provide goods to the poor.  However, many thrift stores like Goodwill or Salvation Army actually exist to raise money for their organization.  When you buy from them, you support their cause, and you also help the environment by keeping a few things from ending up in landfills.  That’s a feel good proposition we all should support. 

Now here’s a peek at my latest thrift store before and after: 

I followed the same steps as I did on this green nursery dresser, but here’s a recap on how to paint furniture.

1) Remove all Hardware.  Before priming and painting, be sure to remove knobs and pulls.  

2) Clean and Scuff.   With the use of a bonding primer, there is no need to sand your piece to remove all traces of varnish, but giving the entire piece a onceover with a medium grit (80 – 120) sanding wedge for 5 to 10 minutes helps to remove any lingering debris and also preps your surface for priming.  Wipe down when complete.

3) Cosmetic Repair.  Fill any scratches or dents with a sandable and paintable wood putty.  If you are moving the location of your knobs or hardware, now is the time to fill those existing holes.  Sand smooth when dry. 

4)  Prime.  Bonding primers are essential for a lasting paint job, and there are several primers on the market, both water and oil based versions.  I use Zinsser ‘Cover Stain’, an oil based formula, because it adheres to glossy surfaces (even laminate) and blocks any stain from seeping through and affecting your future paint color.   You can choose either a spray version or brush on version.

Keep in mind, using a brush on formula requires you clean your brush with mineral spirits or paint thinner, so consider using a throwaway paintbrush for the primer coat.  Tip: oil based paints will come off your hands with vegetable oil, no need to use harsh chemicals on your hands. 

5)  Paint.  One your primer is dry, apply two coats of latex paint.  For the best paint job, invest in a quality angled brush.  You can use a roller for quick application, but you’ll need to follow it up with a brush, especially in nooks or tight places.  I also recommend a paint conditioner called Floetrol, which extends your drying time to eliminate drag and minimize brush strokes in your paint.  It’s inexpensive ($7 to $9 a bottle) and a little goes a long way, find it at any specialty paint store. 

7)  Add Hardware.  If you’re adding modern knobs or pulls, measure their precise location and use a drill bit to create new holes. 

8. Protect your Hard Work.  Use a water based protectant as your final step, which helps eliminate any stickiness that can result from using latex paint, and also protects your paint for years to come.  I recommend either Minwax Polycrylic or Varathane Polyurethane formulas, you can find them in brush on or spray applications, in both satin and gloss finishes.  Make sure you avoid any oil based polyurethanes, they are designed for stained furniture, and will yellow or amber over time. 

Follow these steps and you’ll have a custom piece in a weekend!

Before:

After:

What’s your latest thrift store score?

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Today I wanted to share a recent revamp of a great little writer’s desk I recently scored at a thrift store.  This desk was a total bargain, marked at $49 at my local St. Vincent de Paul, but it was 50% off furniture day, so I picked her up for $25 dollars.  Solid wood, classic lines, rope detail around the desktop, and little pull out ledges on each side makes this the perfect writer’s desk.  How could I resist bringing it home?

The top was scratched and dented, so I thought with just a simple coat of white paint and a little distressing, this desk could be brought back to life, and would be so lovely.

Here is the desk Before:

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And After:

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Of course, I couldn’t resist temporarily bringing this desk into my entry.  I was thinking of replacing the hardware, but lately I’m loving antique gold finishes, so instead of new knobs, I simply recoated the original black and gold knobs with antique gold paint so the finish is more subtle, and less shiny.

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To refinish this piece, I followed all of the same techniques I mentioned in this recent article on how to paint furniture.   Some light sanding with my 3M sanding wedge  . . .

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. . . led to this distressed finish, bringing out a hint of the original wood tones.

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Scratched up before. . .

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. . . and after

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Nothing like a coat of white paint to freshen a great find.

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For now, the desk is sitting in my entry, but here’s a funny thing.  My neighbor spied it in my driveway, and stopped by the other day to tell me she would love it for her daughter’s room.

And I’ve already mentioned it to another family too . . .

Such a dilemma, where will it eventually go?

This one is so pretty, and the perfect size for where it sits.

So I just might have to keep it here for awhile.  :)

Nothing makes me happier than a great second hand find, and the opportunity to revamp the new treasure for a great cause.  This one was for a good friend of mine who recently had a baby girl.  She’s been a little preoccupied with her little one, so her hub and I conspired to makeover this piece for her nursery, currently a work in progress, but sure to beautiful when the space is finished. 

I’ve been looking for the perfect dresser for her for awhile now, and finally scored this one at a local thrift store last week, I was so excited! I brought it home so I could paint it for her as a surprise.

With all the pieces I’ve painted over the years, I realized I should write up a full step by step for repainting an old treasure like this one, including cosmetic repair, priming and painting so here goes!

Supplies to Have Before You Start:  Power screwdriver (+ drill bits if replacing hardware), medium (80 – 120 grit) sanding wedge, primer, latex paint color of choice, Floetrol, 2” angled quality paintbrush, water based polyurethane protectant. 

How to Paint Wood Furniture: The Basic Steps

These are my tried and true techniques for repairing, priming, and painting an old hand me down, or a lucky Craigslist or thrift store find like this damaged honey tone wood dresser.

Necessary to Sand?  If your piece is in pretty good condition, you can skip the sanding step or the use of a power sander and go straight to priming.  Bonding primers don’t require sanding, even if your piece is heavily varnished, but I do find giving the furniture a good scuffing with a medium (80 grit) sanding wedge not only helps clean off any debris, but gives your primer a great surface to cling too.  No need to sand away all the varnish and get down to the raw wood, just give it a good 5 to 10 minute scuffing with a sanding wedge, then wipe away any debris with a soft cloth. 

Repairing Scratches, Dents & Holes.  I bought this particular piece because of its classic lines and solid wood construction, but many would pass it up due to the surface damage.  On the top of this dresser, there were deep scratches and a sticky residue, so the first thing I did was sand the scratches on the top with my power orbital sander to smooth out the surface. 

There was also a deep unsightly welt in the front corner. 

No worries, this is a cosmetic problem easily addressed with wood filler, which allows you to repair scratches, dents, welts and fill holes in your wood furniture before you go about painting it.  I’ve tried other products, but to date Elmer’s is the best I’ve found.  It’s moist and moldable and washes off your fingers and tools easily, dries quickly, and is also sandable and paintable. 

Gently sanding the top with my power sander combined with the proper use of wood filler (two applications for the deepest welt), led to this perfectly smooth surface. 

Filling Holes for New Knobs or Pulls.  If you’ve opted for new knobs, often they will fit right in the old holes, but many modern pulls are sized differently than the old hardware.  Wood filler is also your best bet for starting over. 

These glass pulls can be found at Restoration Hardware, they’re gorgeous, but pricey.  Definite bling for your furniture, but a worthy splurge for my very dear friend, especially since the dresser only cost me $40 dollars.       

Do You Really Need to Prime?   With wood furniture, the answer is yes and no.  Yes, if you want a smooth even finish and a paint job that will last for years.  No if you want a distressed look and don’t care about the paint peeling off over time, or if are using oil based spray paints, which I have found often work really well without primer.  (Yes, I have read about the newest product on the market, chalk paint, see below!) 

Nevertheless, I always advise if you’re seeking a straight up smooth evenly painted piece and a paint job that will last, using a good bonding primer is key.  If you’re going to take the time and energy to paint a piece, take the time to prime it too. 

My go to favorite has always been Zinsser.  You can use the water based formula with the blue label but it takes up to a week to fully cure and I haven’t the patience.  I prefer to use either the spray or brush on oil based Zinsser Cover Stain with the brown label, it has yet to fail me.  For this dresser, I used spray on Zinsser for the drawers for a super smooth finish – it goes on quickly and dries in about 20 minutes.  (If using the spray version, be sure to work in a well ventilated area and dispose of your cans according to your local waste regulations.)

For the top I brushed on a thicker coat of Zinsser because it will get the most wear and tear.  It’s a personal preference to use the brush on formula, but for tabletops, desktops or other surfaces which will have lots o’ stuff sliding back and forth, a thick coat (even two!) of brush on Zinsser is a miracle worker, plus you can sand it smooth once it dries (in less than an hour per coat) making it easy to get really good bonding coverage in an afternoon.

In my opinion, this is the very best primer for laminate surfaces as well.  I’ve used this brush on formula on a laminate storage center and also this office credenza, and haven’t had any chipping or scratched paint to date, and both of those pieces experience a lot of daily wear and tear. 

Always Two Coats of Paint.  Once you’re primer is fully dry, sand any drips, brush marks, or paint residue and wipe down with a soft cloth. I never skimp with just one coat, two is always best for uniformity and even coverage, allowing 4 to 6 hours of drying time between coats.  There are two tools I won’t paint without.

1) Floetrol.  This product in the orange bottle is a paint conditioner exclusively for latex paint (use Penetrol for oil based paints).  It’s a product I have used time and again to extend the wet edge (or slow down the drying time) and also to minimize roller marks and brush strokes.  The most frustrating part about applying paint to furniture by hand is the drag that occurs when paint starts to dry too quickly, so the Floetrol helps avoid that drag.  I follow the directions on the back of the bottle, but I also let the paint’s workability act as a guide as to how much Floetrol is necessary.

Floetrol is not a paint thinner, it’s a conditioner sold at all the specialty paint stores, and it won’t change the color of your paint.  It was recommended to me by a professional years ago, and ever since I’ve always used it.  Floetrol is great investment if you’re also painting trim or doors around your house, it’s not expensive ($7 to $10 per bottle) and a little goes a long way. 

2)  A high quality angled paint brush is essential.  If you don’t have the luxury of a sprayer, you’ll be using a paintbrush.  The last thing you want to be doing is picking loose paintbrush hairs out of your paint, which happens with cheaper brushes so don’t bother with them.  You can apply your paint quicker with a foam roller, but you still will end up with edge marks, so I always follow up a roller with a brush.  An angled brush also helps get into grooves and crevices better, plus with a steady hand it cuts in straight lines extremely well.  If you take good care of it, a good angled brush like Purdy will last you for years.

This dresser got two tones of paint for subtle but beautiful contrast.  The drawers are painted with Benjamin Moore’s ‘Prescott Green’ (HC-140, Regal formula) and the top, sides and frame are painted with ‘Prescott Green’ cut in half with white paint.   

This dresser is for a baby girl’s nursery and soft green is the favorite color choice for the space, which is why I chose this particular shade for her.    

Should You Paint the Inside the Furniture?   I typically don’t because layers of paint can cause stickiness or prevent your drawers from sliding in and out, but it depends on the piece.  In this case, I painted just inside the frame, and nothing more.  With doors I usually paint the back too so there is uniform color when doors are opened, but that is a personal preference.  

Adding New Hardware.  If you’ve filled holes from your old hardware and are drilling new ones, here are the steps I follow.  Precisely measure the location of your new hardware, then use the proper size drill bit to create new holes for your screws.  I do this before the protective coat, just in case there are any slip ups or mistakes that need to be patched or painted over. 

A Note on Paint Sheen.  You can choose anything from flat to semi gloss to refinish your furniture, I typically go with eggshell or satin.  But it is the final protectant you use that determines the ultimate sheen. 

Protecting Your Paint Job.  These are the two brands I use: Minwax and Varathane, both in water based formulas.

You also have the option of using glazes and/or paste waxes for a more hand rubbed finish – see below for links to the sites I recommend that know all about protecting your piece with waxes.   

Both Minwax and Varathane’s formulas are available in either satin or gloss clear finishes.  When your paint has dried for at least 24 hours, apply a water based polyurethane to protect your surface.  Do not use an oil based polyurethane, it will amber or yellow over time. 

Minwax Polycrylic comes in both a spray or brush on formula.  Varathane in spray, brush on, or my latest discovery, a rub on formula in a tube.  This version is quick, easy, and dries the fastest.

Once the protectant is dry, you are free to bring the piece inside your home and make it work for your space! 

There you have it, my step by step for a lasting paint job on wood furniture ~ these same steps also apply to wood cabinetry or laminate pieces as well. 

I’ve read a lot about the latest ‘no primer’ product on the market, Annie Sloan’s chalk paint, and it sounds very promising having read several reviews.  I have yet to try it because it’s more expensive than standard paint, requires an online order, and comes in limited colors, but I’m sure I’ll be ordering some soon just to see how I like it.   I found this helpful article on the pros and cons and also gained some useful information from Amy’s experience working with chalk paint. 

Distressing Techniques: I’ve repainted a piece here and there to achieve a distressed look, but there are three ladies who refinish furniture as a business that I highly recommend for this technique.  These inspiring bloggers have mastered the art of distressing, glazing, and/or waxing furniture, so be sure to pay them a visit. 

1) Shaunna from Perfectly Imperfect (I also recommend her eBook Creating Your Masterpiece), 2) Marian from Miss Mustard Seed (who also recommends both waxes and chalk paint), and 3) Holly from In the Fun Lane, who does the most beautiful white finishes on her pieces for sale.

Hope you’ve enjoyed this step by step today!  It may seem time consuming and labor intensive but remember a quick spray primer and a rub on protectant are the fastest steps, it’s the repair and painting processes that take the most time.  With a little patience, you’ll achieve a perfectly painted piece with smooth even coverage that will last for years to come.

Linking up to Layla’s How To’s Party & Tip Junkie’s ‘Tip Me Tuesday’. 

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Here’s what it looked like last week. 

And now.

I went back and forth deciding whether to add some tufting with fabric covered buttons, but decided with the glitzy silver leaf and the swirling detail on this Annie Selke Pearls Slate fabric, to skip the tufting this time. 

I find the best way to understand how to reupholster a chair is to analyze the original upholstery job.  This particular chair was a hint more complicated because of the necessity of tacking strips along the back of the chair.

For those who don’t know what they are, tacking strips are a tool used by professionals to create a clean edge with fabric where there is a visible seam.  You can find them in fabric stores or order them online too. 

Stripping an old upholstered piece is time consuming and an icky job.  There are always a zillion tacks and staples to pull, and you’ll often find the foam and old batting underneath is disintegrated.  Ewww.

It took me an hour to get it down to this frame.  The springs were in great shape so I left them intact, then gave the visible parts of the frame and the legs a coat of spray gray primer, which is a great base if you’re planning to silver leaf a piece. 

You get a subtle crinkly texture with silver leaf, but it is a pain in the patootie to apply.  I followed the same method as with this silver leaf lamp.  However, with the chair, I couldn’t get the silver leaf to settle in the ridges very well, plus it was shinier than I really wanted, so I used some ‘Silver Leaf’ Rub ‘n Buff over the top to tone down the reflection a bit and fill in the ridges. 

Then I protected it with my new favorite: wipe on water based Varathane Polyurethane in ‘Satin’.  I found it at OSH and it’s so easy to use.  Wipe a small amount on a rag, then wipe the protectant on your piece, easy peasy.   

The combo of the three led to this finish. 

Gray primer + silver spray paint could achieve a similar look, but the‘Silver Leaf’ Rub ‘n Buff creates a muted, hand rubbed sheen that’s so pretty.  Once the legs and frame were covered in the silver, I reupholstered the chair with new foam and batting.

As an alternative, I could have sewn a slipcover for the top, then tacked it underneath, but I thought this chair was a great opportunity to practice some more with tacking strips.  If I was going to tuft the chair with fabric covered buttons like this headboard, it would be right at this stage (creating a hole in that batting of course).

You can see in the ‘Before’ how the original tufting occurred by pulling the buttons with twine and securing them to the wood frame before sealing the back of the chair with tack strips.

To close up the back of the chair, I chose flexible metal tacking strips, also called flexible curve ease, with metal teeth.  I found this metal tacking strip at Beacon Fabrics for about $1.50 a yard. 

With needle nose pliers and a hammer, you attach the strip with 3/4 inch nails (or upholstery tacks).  Then you wedge your fabric inside the metal teeth, then fold the teeth over for a clean seam, hammering it closed with a mallet.

Finally, I had to hide the stapled edges around the legs.  When hiding stapled edges, you basically have three choices.  1) Sew your own double welt cord,  2) Hide the staples with gimp, or 3) Cover them with nailhead trim. 

In this case, I chose pewter nailhead trim to complement the silver leaf finish.  To apply nailhead trim, hold them individually in place with needle nose pliers, then use a mallet (not a hammer) to gently pound them into the chair.

This thrift store chair now sits in my master bathroom.  Of course this type of gilding isn’t for everyone, but I do like how it adds a touch of Old Hollywood glamour. 

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