DIY: Laundry Room Drying Rack
July 27, 2009
For a long time, I have really wanted one of those drying racks from Ballard Designs. You’ve seen them. They’re so perfect in the laundry room for drying your delicate clothing.
I really wanted to save the money and build one myself. I knew I could do it with the right supplies. I even drew my own diagram on a napkin. And I added knobs to the bottom of my design.
Here’s a look at the final result:
This is the perfect solution for drying all of my delicates! I am so happy with the way it turned out – it is both pretty and practical.
How to Build a Laundry Room Drying Rack + Supplies:
- 2 x 2’ precut birch (1/2 inch thick)
- Two 1/2 x 2” poplar boards
- Two 3/8” dowel rods (48” long)
- Sash lock
- Narrow loose pin hinges (set of two)
- D ring hangers for mounting on wall
- Bracketed hinge for side (or chain with small screw eyes)
- Three white porcelain knobs
- Primer and paint of choice
Necessary tools: Drill bit set, including 3/8 inch drill bit, screwdriver, framing nails, a hammer, and a saw.
Step One: Measure and cut your 1/2 inch x 2 boards to fit the 2 x 2 precut birch. Cut your dowel rods to fit inside your drying rack frame.
Step Two: With your 3/8 inch drill bit, drill holes for your precut dowel rods. Use a mallet to hammer dowel rods into predrilled spots.
Step Three: Finish assembling your rack with framing nails.
Step Four: Attach your pin hinges with a screwdriver.
Step Five: Prime your wood drying rack, then paint with your color of choice. I used a spray primer, then once it was dry, I applied Rustoleum’s Seaside Green to the back. Once the back was dry, I covered it with newspaper, and painted the dowel rods and frame with Rustoleum’s Heirloom White.
Step Six: If you want to make the sides of your inexpensive wood smoother, then use paintable wood filler (or wood putty) to fill in the uneven surfaces. I use my finger to apply it. Once the wood filler is dry, simply spray paint right over it.
Step Seven: When your paint is dry, attach your sash lock to the top of your drying rack. It’s a good idea to drill pilot holes first when working with wood only 1/2 inch thick. This way, when you drive your screws in, you have a much better chance of avoiding any visible split in your wood.
Step Eight: Drill holes to attach your knobs to the bottom.
Step Nine: Attach a hinged bracket, or a chain with screw eyes, to keep your drying rack at your desired angle when open. Attach your D-ring hangers to the back, and hang on your laundry room wall.
What I like about this new drying rack is that I can dry all sorts of delicate clothing (*ahem* ladies, your lingerie…).
I added knobs to the bottom of my design so I can dry sweaters or other clothing right on the hanger.
It’s a solid wood piece, hung right on the wall studs, so I can even dry towels right on these knobs.
When open, it has four rungs for drying several layers of clothing:
When not in use, it folds up flush with the wall, with the help of the sash lock on top:
I purchased all of my wood and hinges at Lowes. The total cost for the supplies for my drying rack was around $25 (not including paint and primer that I had in my supply closet). Compare that to Ballard’s price of $89 for their small version (not including tax plus shipping).
2013 Update: This drying rack is still working perfectly in the laundry room and definitely worth the effort since it’s used almost every day!